917.731 

V»58s 


SECOND 


BOOK 

or 


KORTH  SHORE 


HIGHWAYS 
PAST  AND  PRESENT 


LIBRARY  OF  THE 
UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS 
AT  URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

IN  MEMORY  OF 

STEWART  §.  HOWE 

JOURNALISM  CLASS  OF  1928 


STEWART  S.  HOWE  FOUNDATION 


91 7 . 731 
W58S 


I.H.S. 


SECOND  BOOK  of  the  NORTH  SHORE 


Photo  by  Ben 


THE  HEIGHTS  AT  "MIRALAGO" 
Highland  Park.  111. 


SECOND 

BOOK  of  the  NORTH  SHORE 


HOMES,  GARDENS,  LANDSCAPES 

HIGHWAYS  AND  BYWAYS 

PAST  AND  PRESENT 


By  MARIAN  A.  WHITE 
.Author  and  Lecturer 


CHAPEL  TOWER 
Lake  Forest  College 


CHICAGO 

J.  HARRISON  WHITE 
1911 


Price  Two  Dollars 


Copyright.  191).  by  J.  Harrison  While 


TO  THE 
PATRONS  AND  SUBSCRIBERS 

WHO  HAVE  MADE 
ITS  PRODUCTION  POSSIBLE 

THIS  BOOK 

IS  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED  BY 
THE  PUBLISHER 


FOREWORD 

The  Treaty  of  Chicago,  whereby  the  Indian,  on  the  twentieth  day 
of  September,  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty-three,  ceded  all  that 
remained  of  his  birthright,  in  Illinois  and  Wisconsin,  was  consum- 
mated on  the  North  Shore.  Therefore  the  "First  Book  of  the  North 
Shore"  (1910),  naturally  dwells  upon  the  traditions  and  legends 
associated  with  Chicago  and  this  immediate  environment.  The 
author,  in  the  preparation  of  this  earlier  work,  realized  how  much 
of  traditional  interest,  the  "North  Shore"  in  Lake  County,  possessed. 
In  the  "Second  Book  of  the  North  Shore"  effort  has  been  made  to 
tell  its  story.  As  a  similar  work  on  the  highways  and  byways  in  the 
same  county,  but  a  little  more  remote  from  the  west  shore  line  of  the 
Great  Lake,  is  in  contemplation,  but  brief  mention  is  made  of  these 
particular  localities,  and,  only  in  so  far  as  their  traditions  are  closely 
associated  with  those  of  Waukegan,  Lake  Forest  and  Highland  Park. 
In  the  first  work,  Cook  County  was  largely  represented.  The  present 
work  is  also  illustrative  of  the  "present"  in  Glencoe,  Hubbard  Woods, 
Kenilworth,  Wilmette,  Evanston,  Birchwood,  Rogers  Park,  Edge- 
water,  and  Glen  View.  Later,  the  author  hopes  to  feature  the  past 
and  present  of  Evanston  in  an  illustrated  work  of  like  kind.  "Out 
of  scraps  and  fragments,  diamond  dust  of  the  past,"  must  we  link 
together,  not  only  that  which  is  of  import  locally,  but  that  which 
shall  swell  the  budget  of  tradition,  nationally. 


Page  six 


J.  OGDEN  ARMOUR'S  SUMMER  HOME 
Lake  Forest 


Highways  and  Byways 
Past  and  Present 

THE  HIGHWAY  IS  OPENED 

Thou  givest  all 

An  equal  chance — to  work,  to  do  their  best — 
Free  land,  free  hand — thy  son  must  work  or  fall 
Grow  strong  or  die  !    That  message  shrieks  the  storm-wind's  call ! 

A.  C.  Laut 

BEFORE    the    seventeenth   century   had  rounded    to    maturity, 
England  and  France  were  vieing  with  each  other  for  territorial 
aggrandizement    in   that    newer  country,  far,   far   beyond  the 
Atlantic  seaboard.    The  latter  territory  was  still  in   the  throes  of 
pioneer  development,  while  that  of  the  Great  Lakes,  the  unexplored 
region,  became  the  land  of  romance,  of  heroic  deeds,  of  new  pleasures 
and  wealth  in  the  imagination  of  those  who  were  willing  to  brave 
its  hardships. 

The  church,  too,  was  caught  in  the  spirit  of  the  age.  Its  mis- 
sionaries, young  men  of  learning  and  of  unquenchable  zeal,  were 
urged  to  join  the  various  expeditions  of  exploration  with  a  view  to 
converting  the  aborigines  to  the  Faith.  A  brave  and  noble  band  were 


Page  seven 


Page  eight 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

these  ambassadors  of  the  Cross.  How  they  struggled  to  gain  con- 
verts amid  hardships  inconceivable,  as  well  as  their  sufferings  from 
exposure  and  fatigue,  can  better  be  imagined  than  described.  Their 
letters  tell  very  little  of  these  features  of  the  expedition,  so  thoroughly 
had  self  become  absorbed  in  caring  for  others.  Yet  one  may  read 
between  the  lines  of  these  precious  documents. 

The  Indians  had  brought  to  the  traders  of  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence 
wonderful  stories  of  a  country  in  the  vicinity  of  a  Great  River  which 
no  white  man  had  seen.  Across  seas  spread  this  legend  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley,  and  in  due  course,  the  highways  and  byways  of  river, 
lake  and  wilderness  trail  became  familiar  to  explorer,  missionary, 
voyageur,  trader  and  adventurer,  each  and  all  urging  their  impetuous 
way  northward  and  westward.  Advance  or  retreat,  encouragement 
or  despair,  according  to  the  will  or  notion  of  the  warring  Indians 
through  whose  territory  they  must  of  necessity  pass;  beset  with 
privations  of  every  kind ;  running  the  gauntlet  of  capture  and  torture 
worse  than  death,  undaunted  and  courageous  to  recklessness,  passed 
band  after  band  of  those  wilderness  pioneers,  and  messengers  of  the 
story  of  the  Cross  from  New  France  over  the  route  which  might  bring 
them  to  this  Eldorado. 

Nicolet,  Groseillier  and  Radison,  Joliet  and  Marquette,  La  Salle, 
Tonty  and  Hennepin,  each  in  due  course  making  their  way  to  Green 
Bay,  singly  or  in  company,  and  from  thence  journeying  to  the  west, 
northwest  and  southwest,  in  their  ambition  to  annex  territory  to  the 
New  France  that  had  established  itself  at  Quebec,  as  well  as  for  the 
conversion  of  the  aborigines  to  Christianity.  Associated  with  each 
and  all  of  these  names  is  an  interesting  amount  of  legend  and  tradi- 
tion but  partially  told. 

It  is  early  Autumn  and  the  year  1673.  The  wood-crested  bluffs 
of  the  shore  north  from  the  "Chicagou"  are  struggling  to  retain 
pretentions  of  summer  finery,  while  coquettishly  appropriating  frag- 
ments of  that  regal  splendor  suggestive  of  the  ripening  season,  that 
imperceptibly  melts  into  the  rime  of  winter.  Fair  and  fickle  wert 
thou,  dear  old  woodlands!  Even  as  today.  Yet  'twixt  thy  changing 
moods,  through  vistas  that  were  fast  telling  the  story  of  crumpled 
leaf  and  wind-swept  distances,  on  this  particular  Autumn  day  in 
question,  might  be  found  an  Indian  watching  the  purpled  billows 
making  sport  of  two  frail  canoes. 

A  moment  before  and  his  bow  was  taut !  But  the  graceful  creature 
now  peacefully  browsing  in  the  depths  of  yon  ravine,  owes  its  present 
immunity  to  the  fact  that  its  would-be  slayer  has  become  distraught 
from  suspicion.  Cherished  as  one  of  the  special  gifts  of  "Manitou 
the  Mighty,"  the  red  man  experiences  feelings  of  resentment  toward 
the  purposeful  urging  of  two  birch-bark  canoes  over  his  own  particular 
highway.  Besides  the  merry  chansons  of  the  irrepressible  coureurs 
de  bois,  fall  on  his  ear  as  if  in  defiance  or  challenge. 

Among  the  occupants  of  the  foremost  canoe  he  singles  out  one 
with  darkly-bearded  face,  and  notes  with  apprehension  that  a  pair  of 
eagle  eyes  are  keenly  scanning  the  bluffs,  while  significant  gesticula- 
tions are  made  in  the  same  direction.  The  throb  of  irritation,  that 
like  an  arrow  pierced  the  bosom  of  the  Indian,  now  yields  to  one  of 


Page  nine 


W          JB 


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Page  ten 


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Page  eleven 


Page  twelve 


HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 


less  antagonism,  as  he  becomes  aware  of  a  wasted  and  gaunt  form 
enveloped  in  a  dark,  travel-stained  garment,  being  borne  along  by 
the  less  boisterous  movements  of  two  engages,  in  the  second  canoe. 

"Black  Robe!"  Yes,  the  Indian  had  already  become  familiar 
with  its  significance,  for  not  so  many  moons  had  waxed  and  waned 
since  a  "Black  Robe"  (Father  Allouez)  had  told  to  the  Winnebagoes 
in  the  northland  the  Story  of  One  who  had  died  to  save.  He  was 
a  Pale  Face,  as  was  the  Black  Robe  who  brought  the  message.  And 
now  a  number  of  pale  faces  and  another  Black  Robe  are  adown  the 
waterway  bordered  by  the  favorite  hunting  grounds!  What  does  it 
portend?  The  Indian  soon  learned. 

Had  the  darkly-bearded  man  (Joliet)  succeeded  in  conveying  the 
valuable  memoranda  and  charts  outlining  this  particular  expedition 
of  exploration,  the  North  Shore  might  be  more  rife  with  tradition  and 
legend  than  at  present.  How  did  its  bluffs  and  dunes,  its  forests  and 
ravines,  its  inlets  and  sandy  and  pebbled  beaches  impress  the  first 
white  men  who  dared  its  mutable  waters? 

But  the  Lachine  Rapids  of  the  beautiful  St.  Lawrence  hold  within 
their  maw  of  turmoil  and  never-ceasing  action  the  story  we  would 
fain  tell.  Nothing  in  the  way  of  discovery  and  exploration  seems 
difficult  in  these  modern  days  of  scientific  acquirement,  and  if  these 
documents  were  on  parchment  and  protected  by  skin  covering,  it  is 
not  improbable  that  at  some  time  in  the  future  when  the  Lachine 
Rapids  come  under  the  manipulation  of  engineers,  bent  on  making 
them  navigable,  that  the  lost  documents  will  be  found  and  in  such 
condition  as  to  be  of  service  to  those  interested. 

Marquette,  the  gentle  missionary,  has  left  in  his  diary  unmis- 
takeable  evidence  of  his  voyage  adown  the  North  Shore  in  the  autumn 
of  1674.  Two  shelter  places  are  clearly  denned  in  this  particular 
vicinity — in  the  neighborhood  of  what  is  now  Lake  Bluff  and  Evanston 
(See  "Book  of  North  Shore",  1910).  Two  local  historians  claim  the 
present  site  of  Waukegan  as  one  of  the  shelter  places  on  this  particular 
expedition  to  the  Illini.  This  is  not  an  improbable  conclusion.  The 
band  of  Pottawattomies,  in  five  canoes  acting  as  escort,  would  be 
familiar  with  the  shore  line  and  its  advantageous  inlets  for  rest  and 
shelter,  as  well  as  its  immunity  from  unfriendly  expressions  on  the 
part  of  the  natives.  But  the  assertion  that  Marquette  landed  some- 
where in  the  vicinity  of  what  is  now  designated  Waukegan,  and  from 
thence  journeyed  over  the  inland  trail  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago 
river,  has  no  foundation  in  fact. 

True,  the  smaller  band  of  Illini,  whom  he  had  suffered  to  accom- 
pany him  in  four  canoes,  were  not  in  favor  of  the  water — the  Great 
Lake  in  particular.  They  were  not  "canoe-men"  in  the  same  sense 
as  the  Pottawattomies.  Therefore,  supposing  the  Illini  to  have  sug- 
gested the  inland  trail,  the  Pottawattomies,  the  all-powerful  tribe  in 
this  vicinity  at  that  period,  would  have  over-ruled  the  proposal,  for 
Marquette  was  not  in  condition,  physically,  to  undergo  the  fatigue 
attending  this  latter  route. 

The  lake,  in  spite  of  stress  of  weather,  seemed  the  more  feasible, 
for  in  his  canoe  the  missionary  might  be  borne  along  in  reclining 
position  when  fatigue  necessitated  that  change.  Again,  Lake  Mich- 


thirteen 


Page  fourteen 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND       PRESENT 


Photo  by  Beniin 


A  TURN  IN  THE  ROAD 
Lake  Forest,  111. 


igan  was  then,  as  today,  smiling  in  its  azure  bewitchingness  one  hour, 
the  next  finding  it  the  plaything  of  winds,  which  transform  its  placid 
waters  into  heaving  bulkheads,  threatening  dire  destruction  to  all 
craft  caught  within  their  power.  And  also  as  today,  after  a  night  of 
storm  and  unrest,  the  sun  rose  fair  and  promising  from  the  eastern 
horizon,  bestowing  upon  lake,  bluff  and  woodlands  a  beneficence  of 
warmth  and  brightness  like  the  smile  of  heaven  itself. 

So  our  early  voyageurs  took  heart  of  grace,  and,  encouraged  by 
the  trend  of  the  wind  to  the  westward,  where  the  faraway  prairies, 
touched  with  the  decorative  effects  of  autumn,  were  waving  their  long 
grasses  in  sea-like  motion,  and  in  phantasies  of  gold,  amethyst  and 
crimson,  launched  their  canoes  on  the  sappharine  waters,  and  again 
missionary-explorer  and  his  engages,  as  well  as  the  two  bands  of 
friendly  disposed  Indians,  are  gliding  toward  the  mouth  of  the 
"  Chicagou." 

The  ice-floes  of  the  same  shore  were  braved  by  Father  Claude 
Allouez,  in  the  winter  season  of  1676  and  1677.  What  a  world  of 
tradition  and  romance  might  be  wrought  from  the  passing  of  this 
second  heroic  soldier  of  the  Cross  adown  our  storm-lashed  shores! 
Father  Allouez  was  no  longer  young.  He  had  endured  great  hard- 
ships among  the  Indians  of  Lake  Superior  previous  to  his  first  coming 
to  Green  Bay.  It  was  after  Marquette,  journeying  northward  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Lake,  was  seized  by  illness,  terminating  in  death, 
that  Allouez  journeyed  to  the  Illinois  Indians,  among  whom  he 
worked  until  the  coming  of  La  Salle. 


Page  fifteen 


Page  sixteen 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND       PRESENT 


A  VISTA  IN  THE  LAKE  PARK 
Lake  Forest,  111. 

La  Salle !  Another  name  with  which  to  conjure  in  the  legendary 
and  traditional  of  this  particular  vicinity.  Scholar,  gentleman, 
explorer,  La  Salle  became  ambitious  for  his  country's  territorial 
expansion.  His  imagination  fired  by  the  legends  that  reached  him 
of  the  vast,  unexplored  wilderness  westward  of  the  New  France, 
La  Salle  forced  himself  here,  there  and  everywhere  with  the  impetu- 
osity of  the  whirlwind,  so  active,  enthusiastic  and  intrepid  was  he  in 
urging  the  extension  of  French  dominion  in  the  New  World.  Link 
his  name  with  that  of  the  devoted  Tonty,  with  Hennepin,  Membre 
and  a  host  of  others,  and  a  whole  volume  of  tradition  and  legend 
might  be  woven  around  this  combination  of  church  and  state,  of 
political  intrigue  and  treachery. 

It  was  La  Salic  who  first  introduced  to  the  waters  of  Lake  Mich- 
igan the  forerunner  of  the  white-winged  craft  that  was  later  to  skim 
or  plough  its  waters  in  the  interest  of  commerce.  More  than  dis- 
courteous and  lacking  in  hospitality  was  our  dear  old  lake  at  this 
particular  period.  It  was  nothing  less  than  brutal  in  its  treatment 
of  the  frail,  bird -like  vessel  that  had  come  to  it  as  a  messenger  of 
promise.  And  somewhere,  no  one  knows  just  where,  the  "Griffon" 
(forty-five  tons  burden)  fraught  with  La  Salle's  earnest  hopes  and 
heavily  laden  with  a  cargo  of  valuable  furs  while  on  its  return  trip 
eastward,  battered  and  affrighted,  sank,  with  broken  pinions  beneath 
the  relentless  waters. 

Six  years  have  elapsed  since  the  Indian  beheld  with  mingled 
emotions  of  curiosity  and  resentment  the  first  invasion  of  the  shore 


Page  seventeen 


/'«.<;<• 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 


Photo  by  Re 


BROADLY  SWEEPING  RIGHT  AND  LEFT 
Lake  Forest,  III. 


line  by  the  pale  face.  He  had  then  been  somewhat  mollified  by  the 
sight  of  the  "  Black  Robe,"  the  order  which  he  had  learned  to  respect. 
Now  a  little  to  the  northward  and  within  shelter  of  the  bluffs,  the 
members  of  another  expedition  have  been  forced  to  the  beach  by 
stress  of  weather.  Upon  landing  they  discover  signs  of  Indian 
occupancy,  although  no  red  man  is  in  sight.  Appointing  a  guard 
for  the  night  the  remainder  of  the  company  settle  themselves  for 
sleep.  But  the  sentinel  (and  who  shall  blame  him?)  screened  himself 
from  the  bitter  chill  and  torrential  downpour. 

The  Indians  were  watching,  and  when  opportunity  for  a  closer 
investigation  was  afforded,  they  came  silently  down  their  accustomed 
trail,  and  keeping  closely  within  the  shelter  of  the  bluffs  stealthily 
approached  the  sleepers.  Nearer  and  nearer  they  crept  and  closely 
scanned  the  faces  of  the  slumbering  men.  The  rugged  lineaments 
and  resolute  expression  of  one  of  the  number  drew  forth  the  exclama- 
tion of  "Big  Chief!"  The  curiosity  of  the  Indian  has  ultimately  got 
the  better  of  his  wonted  wariness  with  the  result  that  the  band  of 
prowlers  is  discovered.  The  red  men  are  encouraged  to  come  for- 
ward, and  protestations  of  friendliness  on  their  part  are  received  by 
La  Salle  and  his  men  in  good  faith.  Small  gifts  were  bestowed  upon 
them  and  they  departed. 

The  grey  lines  of  dawn  had  no  sooner  tricked  the  eastern  horizon, 
than  the  members  of  the  expedition  awakened  to  the  fact  that  they 
had  been  the  prey  of  thieves.  La  Salle  knew  the  Indian  character 
and  he  acted  accordingly.  Followed  by  his  men  and  the  three  friars 


Page 


Page  twenty 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

he  took  to  the  trail  and  seizing  a  young  warrior  held  him  as  hostage 
while  he  pushed  his  way  toward  the  chief  and  boldly  demanded  the 
return  of  the  stolen  articles,  at  the  same  time  making  him  under- 
stand that  in  the  event  of  his  request  not  being  honored,  the  life  of 
the  prisoner  would  be  forfeited. 

The  Indians,  conscious  of  the  fact  that  they  outnumbered  the 
white  men,  prepared  to  fight.  What  a  moment  for  the  intrepid 
explorer  and  his  little  band!  But  fearless,  and  resolute,  and  with 
guns  in  hand  they  faced  more  than  a  hundred  yelling,  whooping 
savages,  yet  forbore  from  being  the  first  to  attack.  The  Indians, 
surprised  and  doubtful,  also  hesitated  to  begin  the  fight.  These  pale 
faces  seemed  to  know  no  fear.  So  they  resorted  to  a  parley,  whereby 
most  of  the  stolen  articles  were  restored. 

But  the  Indian  of  the  North  Shore  had  now  become  familiar  with 
another  kind  of  pale  face — the  fighting  man,  as  well  as  with  that 
other  "medicine  man,"  the  "Gray  Robe."  It  is  not  so  very  long 
before  he  feels  the  power  and  purpose  of  the  one  for  whose  imple- 
ments of  warfare  he  hungered  and  the  earnestness  and  zeal  of  the 
other.  Then  "Black  Robe"  and  "Gray  Robe"  became  associated  in 
his  intelligence  as  "Long  Robe,"  and  he  was  never  again  quite  as 
interested  in  that  Wonderful  Story  of  the  Cross.  There  were  doubts 
within,  and  fears  without,  and  he  began  to  look  with  suspicion  upon 
the  pale  face,  whether  he  came  in  the  garb  of  priest  or  trader,  and 
he  rested  his  hopes  in  his  own  Manitou,  regardless  of  the  self-sacrificing 
lives  of  the  two  orders  of  missionaries  that  strove  to  bring  his  people 
within  the  Christian  fold. 


THE  STONE  GATE 
Lake  Forest 


Page  twenty-one 


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5 


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S3 

w 


Page  twenty-two 


Photo  by  Be: 


APPROACH  TO  THE  ONWENTSIA  CLUB 
Lake  Forest,  111. 

GLIMPSES  OF  LAKE  COUNTY 

"We  pluck  from  the  vines  they  set ; 

We  walk  in  the  ways  they  made  ; 
We  harvest  their  fields  ;  and  their  forests  yet 

Are  giving  us  rest  and  shade. 

The  fathers — the  men  of  old 

Who  builded  a  place  for  us, 
A  country  magnificent  ;  brave  and  bold 

In  their  faith  all  glorious." 

IN  the  early  period  of  its  political  history,  Lake  County  was  a 
part  of  Cook  County;  that  is  it  was  in  the  Chicago  precinct  or 
election  district.  September,  1835,  the  county  commissioners  of 
Cook,  created  a  new  precinct  which  comprised  most  of  the  territory 
north  of  Chicago,  naming  it  the  Lake  Precinct.  March  first,  1839, 
by  act  of  the  general  assembly,  the  boundaries  and  distinguishing  title 
were  bestowed  on  what  is  now  known  as  Lake  County.  It  received 
its  designation  from  the  fact  that  its  whole  eastern  boundary  is 
denned  by  the  Great  Lake  as  well  as  in  consideration  of  its  territory— 
about  460  square  miles — embracing  a  number  of  smaller  lakes,  forty 
of  which  were  familiar  at  the  time,  the  number  since  discovered  and 
acknowledged,  reaching  the  hundred  mark. 

Little  is  known  of  the  ancient  people  that  possessed  this  charm- 
ing section  of  inland  lakes,  of  rich  forest  growth,  and  undulating 
stretches  of  open  prairie.  The  Mound  Builders  were  here,  but  they, 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

as  the  Indian,  had  no  written  language,  therefore  the  little  tradition 
gathered  from  their  occupancy  has  been  through  the  excavation  of  a 
few  mounds  which  have  yielded  relics  of  much  interest  to  the  student 
of  archaeology.  That  this  pre-historic  people  were  superior  to  our 
aboriginal,  even  as  the  latter  is  of  inferior  race  to  the  white  man, 
there  is  little  doubt,  and  that  Lake  County  was  a  favorite  territory 
of  the  Indian,  we  are  sure.  Game  was  here  in  abundance;  lakes  and 
streams  furnished  a  variety  of  fish,  while  the  marshes  became  the 
breeding  places  of  a  variety  of  waterfowl.  Our  red  brother  preyed 
upon  these  as  a  means  of  sustenance,  as  well  as  to  obtain  skin  for 
clothing,  so  when  the  first  settlers  came,  they,  too,  found  game,  fish 
and  fowl  in  rich  variety. 

Prairie  and  forest  were  penetrated  by  a  network  of  byways  that 
intimated  a  direct  route  to  some  given  point.  Perhaps  a  war  trail 
pushed  itself  directly  in  the  vicinity  of  a  hostile  tribe.  Later,  the 
same  trail  designated  the  most  direct  route  to  the  cabin  of  hunter 
or  trader,  or  to  some  small  settlement  of  the  pale  face.  Other  trails 
were  the  outcome  of  the  chase,  certain  pathways  through  forest  or 
woodland,  or  over  undulating  prairie,  designating  the  habitual  route 
of  the  tribe  when  on  a  hunting  expedition.  There  were  trails  exempli- 
fying the  migratory  spirit  of  whole  villages,  for  parallel  with  the 
moccasined-patted  footpath  were  the  deeply  indented  traces  of  the 
tepee  sticks. 

Through  the  intricate  forest  ways  the  Indian  would  frequently 
twist  or  bend  the  lithe  branches  of  a  young  sapling  in  such  form 
that  it  would  ultimately  grow  and  show  a  marked  difference  from 
anything  of  neighboring  development,  thereby  designating  a  particular 
route  which  would  afterward  become  a  known  trail.  The  white  oak 
and  the  white  elm  trees  seem  to  have  been  selected  along  the  North 
Shore  for  this  purpose. 

A  few  of  these  trail  trees  remain.  Some  of  the  early  settlers 
recognized  them  as  landmarks  of  import  so  made  an  effort  toward 
their  preservation.  Others,  and  these  were  in  the  majority,  con- 
sidered them  freaks  of  nature,  or  "deformed  trees,"  and  so  destroyed 
them.  The  ax  was  the  most  useful  of  implements  to  the  pioneer, 
but  he  did  not  always  wield  it  judiciously.  Historical  landmarks 
were  destroyed,  and  highways  and  byways  unnecessarily  denuded  of 
that  which  he  could  never  hope  to  replace. 

With  regard  to  the  Indian  trails  in  Lake  County  Hon.  C.  A.  Part- 
ridge, who  was  brought  to  this  region  by  his  parents  when  but  a  child 
of  twelve  months,  and  who  is  now  in  the  ripening  years  of  an  honor- 
able and  useful  life,  and  after  becoming  personally  familiar  with  the 
trend  of  these  byways  of  the  past,  says  the  "red  man  without 
scientific  instruments  and  with  no  knowledge  of  the  surveyor's  art, 
in  a  country  dotted  with  lakes  and  sloughs,  laid  out  long  routes  of 
travel  in  a  way  to  avoid  and  pass  between  the  numerous  undrained 
ponds  and  marshes,  and  yet  allow  travel  in  a  straight  line." 

In  1835  one  of  the  oldest  of  these  trails  on  the  North  Shore,  under 
the  supervision  of  General  Scott,  U.  S.  A.,  was  converted  into  a  high- 
way for  military  purposes,  thus  linking  "Little  Fort"  (Waukegan), 
Green  Bay  and  Chicago.  This  highway  is  still  known  as  the  Green 


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HIGHWAY  S      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       P   RESENT 

Bay  Road,  and  its  greatest  charm  and  picturesqueness  lies  within 
the  boundaries  of  Lake  County. 

•  Soon  after  the  evolution  of  the  old  trail  into  that  of  a  military 
road,  a  plank  road  pushed  its  way  westward  and  northward,  also 
over  a  byway  of  the  past,  from  Chicago  into  Lake  County,  where  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Indian  Creek  it  crossed  the  Des  Plaines  and 
united  with  the  Green  Bay  Road  about  a  mile  north  of  Libertyville. 
In  less  than  a  year  this  latter  road  became  a  stage  route,  and  though 
the  vehicle  used  was  nothing  but  a  common  lumber  wagon  it  received 
added  dignity  in  being  drawn  by  four  horses,  and  as  pioneer  repre- 
sentative of  the  United  States  Mail  service  through  Lake  County. 
Previous  to  this,  mail  had  been  carried  by  runners  between  Chicago 
and  Green  Bay,  over  the  old  historic  trail  before  mentioned. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  first  settlers  in  Lake  County,  the  Indian 
realized  his  day  of  doom  was  at  hand,  so  he  peacefully  acquiesced  in 
the  new  order.  True,  he  caused  the  pioneer  settler  some  discomfort 
by  tenaciously  hovering  in  the  vicinity  of  farm  or  cabin,  and  per- 
chance, appropriating  that  upon  which  he  had  set  his  fancy,  but  as 
a  rule  he  was  orderly  and  inclined  to  be  peaceful,  except  when  under 
the  influence  of  the  white  man's  "fire  water."  The  final  treaty  by 
which  the  Indians  ceded  their  right  to  this  particular  territory  had 
not  been  consummated  when  the  first  settlers  came  to  the  county, 
and  in  spite  of  the  warnings  issued  by  the  government,  a  few  daring 
pioneers  staked  claims  while  the  Indian  was  still  the  lawful  possessor 
of  the  land.  By  this  time  the  red  man  had  become  somewhat  pro- 
ficient in  the  use  of  firearms,  his  children  alone  using  bow  and  arrow. 
So  products  of  the  chase  became  objects  of  trade  and  barter  between 
himself  and  the  earlier  white  settlers.  The  latter  found  some  prim- 
itive attempts  at  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  corn,  squashes  and  beans 
were  struggling  for  mastery  under  these  crude  conditions  of  fanning. 

By  1839  the  Indian  title  was  extinguished  and  the  tribes  were 
gradually  coralled  into  reservations  beyond  the  Mississippi.  As  in 
previous  history  the  red  man's  abandonment  of  territory  meant  the 
white  man's  settlement  thereon,  and  Lake  County  proved  no  excep- 
tion to  this  rule.  The  white  man,  as  the  Indian,  preferred  the  vicinity 
of  rivers  and  streams,  so  the  first  real  influx  of  settlers  to  Lake  County 
selected  the  banks  of  the  Des  Plaines  river  which  traverses  the  county 
from  north  to  south  at  an  average  distance  of  six  miles  west  of  the 
Great  Lake.  The  French  explorers  designated  this  river  in  the  old 
maps  as  "Aux  Plaines,"  while  later  it  became  localized  on  modern 
maps  as  "O'Plain."  In  early  times  it  had  gone  by  the  name  of  the 
Des  Plaines  River,  signifying  river  of  the  plains,  while  to  the  Indian 
it  had  been  familiar  as  the  "  She-shick-ma-wish-sip-pe, "  meaning 
"soft  maple  tree  river." 

There  was  a  number  of  creeks  in  this  vicinity,  all  of  which  were 
distinguished  by  Indian  names  of  significance,  and  those  which  have 
not  been  dried  up  by  evaporation,  or  by  drainage,  still  preserve  the 
Anglo-Saxonized  interpretation  of  the  aboriginal  title.  One  may 
roam  throughout  this  region  today,  wondering  if  tradition  is  not 
playing  him  false  in  its  assertion  that  here  in  the  long — and  yet  not 
so  very  long  ago  (1836),  a  boat  was  rowed  and  poled  up  the  north 


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branch  of  the  Chicago  River  to  its  source — the  Dady  Slough — a  little 
west  of  the  present  site  of  Waukegan. 

This  boat  resolved  itself  into  a  sort  of  relief  expedition,  its  cargo 
consisting  of  thirty  bushels  of  potatoes  and  other  badly  needed  sup- 
plies for  the  families  of  the  settlers.  So  far  as  can  be  learned,  in  the 
person  of  Jacob  Miller  was  combined  that  of  captain  and  crew,  pro- 
prietor and  sole  occupant  of  the  pioneer  river-boat  that  pushed  its 
way  over  the  birch-bark-canoe  byway  of  the  Indian.  And  it  speaks 
well  for  the  peaceful  attitude  of  the  Indian  at  this  time,  who,  it  will 
be  remembered,  was  still  the  "lawful  possessor  of  the  land,"  that 
the  courageous  pale  face  reached  his  ultimate  destiny  without  let  or 
hindrance  and  with  his  scalp  still  safe  under  his  twist  of  red  handker- 
chief. It  is  a  pity  that  Jacob  Miller  left  no  detailed  account  of  this 
expedition.  Yet,  tramping  beside  parts  of  this  water-course  today, 
one  realizes  some  of  the  difficulties  encountered  by  this  intrepid  boat- 
man, whose  name  and  that  of  his  descendants  figure  largely  and 
honorably  in  the  history  and  evolution  of  Lake  County. 

Legends  of  the  importance  of  grist  mills  and  saw  mills,  keeping 
parts  of  this  same  waterway  busy  and  excited  in  its  pioneer  work 
of  turning  the  old  type  of  waterwheel,  are  many.  Today  these 
designated  sites  show  either  a  dwindling,  lifeless  stream,  or  a  sinuous 
trail  of  stagnant  water,  by  courtesy,  designated  "river,"  that  has 
neither  current  nor  power  sufficient  to  float  a  toy  boat  or  turn  a 
bauble  wheel.  But  communities  have  grown  and  flourished  here, 
and  today,  smiling  farmlands  and  enterprising  cities  and  villages  all 
bear  evidence  of  that  which  is  up-to-date  and  progressive,  while  still 
retaining  that  subtle  charm  of  an  interesting  and  historic  yesterday. 

The  next  desirable  location  for  the  early  settlers  proved  to  be 
the  territory  adjacent  to  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  old 
trail.  Here,  on  the  Green  Bay  Road,  in  the  early  forties,  a  scattering 
of  pioneers  might  be  found  whose  acres  trended  toward  the  lovely 
valley  westward,  or  eastward  toward  the  beautifully  timbered  por- 
tions nearer  the  lake.  In  the  aeons  that  have  come  and  gone,  long 
before  the  coming  of  the  Mound  Builders  and  the  Indian,  this  ridge, 
according  to  students  of  archaeology,  was  the  boundary  of  the  lake 
itself.  So  in  the  early  history  of  Lake  County  this  former  bluff  that 
had  in  the  infinite  ages  of  which  there  is  no  record,  defined  the 
boundary  of  the  waters  which  are  now  a  mile  or  more  distant  from 
it,  and  over  which  the  prairie  grasses  waved  and  the  lordly  forest 
trees  towered,  in  the  early  forties  of  the  last  century,  is  found  the 
pioneer  home-builder. 

In  these  years,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  what  we  now  know  as  Lake 
Forest  and  Highland  Park,  the  one-time  Indian  trail  and  military 
highway  became  conscious  of  a  new  order.  There  was  an  unfamiliar 
sound  penetrating  this  silent  highway.  It  was  the  ring  of  the  wood- 
man's ax.  Presently — within  the  clearing  made  by  the  slaughter  of 
the  monarchs  that  had  for  centuries  spread  their  beneficence  over 
the  red  man's  sinuous  byways,  whose  limbs  had  become  sturdy  and 
gnarled  during  the  passing  of  tribe  after  tribe  of  the  most  interesting 
and  powerful  of  savage  nations,  might  be  seen  a  little  dun-colored 
structure,  so  in  keeping  with  the  hues  of  the  forest  itself  that  it 


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HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 


imparts  a  grace  note  to  the  scale  of  magnificent  vistas  by  which  it 
is  environed. 

The  first  log  cabin  was  not  one  foot  larger  than  absolutely  neces- 
sary. It  was  generally  the  product  of  a  single  man's  labor.  By 
and  bye  he  induced  a  woman  to  share  it  with  him.  Perhaps  he 
traveled  weary  distances,  either  on  foot  or  by  ox  team,  to  win  her 
as  his  wife  and  persuade  her  to  come  to  the  log  cabin  in  the  wilderness 
and  make  a  home  for  them  both.  Brave  and  sturdy  were  the  men 
of  pioneer  times!  But  the  women,  considering  the  conditions,  were 
even  more  courageous  and  buoyant.  Then  honor  to  them  both. 

Together  they  blazed  a  trail  whose  glory  scintillates  in  the  homes 
of  the  nation.  Their  descendants  are  still  building  homes  and  empire. 
The  mountains  have  yielded  to  their  energy  and  perseverance,  the 
desert  smiles  and  blossoms  as  they  pass.  The  snows  of  Alaska 
recognize  their  indomitable  will  and  never-tiring  energy;  the  tropics 
languish  no  longer  in  do-nothingness  after  the  magic  of  their  mood 
has  penetrated  its  somnolency.  No  monument  is  needed  to  per- 
petuate their  memory,  for  they  are  a  vital  part  of  the  nation  itself, 
and  so  long  as  home-life  is  honored  and  the  nation's  best  asset  is 
found  in  the  integrity  of  its  representatives  America  will  be  all  that 
these  early  pioneers  dared  hope  it  would  be — a  power  for  good  among 
the  nations  of  the  earth. 

After  awhile,  family  emergencies  necessitated  a  second  and  larger 
home,  or  an  addition  to  the  first  one.  This  time  the  man  did  not 
hew  and  cut  and  build  alone.  Other  settlers  had,  in  the  meantime, 
located  within  a  mile,  maybe  five  or  ten  miles  of  distance,  and  the 
neighborly,  helpful  spirit  prevailing  under  conditions  fostered  by  this 
early  time,  a  second  and  more  commodious  log  structure  came  into 
being.  When  finished  a  house-warming  was  in  order.  Among  the 
invited  guests,  be  sure  there  was  one,  and  perhaps  two,  who  knew 
how  to  manipulate  flute  or  violin,  either  or  both  of  these  instruments 
having  been  smuggled  in  among  his  other  "pioneer  belongings." 
Then  feet  were  compelled  to  keep  rhythmic  movement,  while  eyes 
blinked  through  tears  both  joyous  and  sad  as  strains  reminiscent  of 
days  that  knew  not  the  hardship  and  privations  of  the  later  years 
were  wafted  from  end  to  end  of  the  primitive,  yet  happy  home  in 
the  wilderness. 

Schoolhouses,  also  built  of  logs,  were  used  for  religious  services 
and  for  community  gatherings,  political  and  otherwise,  as  occasion 
demanded.  Legend  tells  of  the  first  schoolhouse  in  Lake  County 
being  built  at  Libertyville  in  the  Autumn  of  1836;  that  it  was  of 
the  block-house  style— that  is  the  logs  were  hewn  on  both  sides. 
This  schoolhouse  was  built,  as  most  of  the  schoolhouses  of  this  period, 
by  subscription,  and  supported  by  contributions.  There  were  many 
bachelors  in  Libertyville  and  its  vicinity  at  this  time,  and  to  their 
credit  be  it  said,  the  little  log  schoolhouse  not  only  received  better 
care  in  its  building,  but  larger  financial  support  from  this  band  of 
enterprising  pioneers,  who  builded  better  than  they  knew. 

It  was  the  period  of  rail  fences,  and  what  an  amount  of  time  and 
labor  was  expended  in  the  making  of  the  same !  Ax,  maul  and  wedge 
were  the  onlv  available  tools  and  the  labor  commanded  a  remuner- 


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HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  — PAST      AND        PRESENT 

ation  of  one  cent  per  rail.  These  fences  meant  greater  onslaughts 
upon  the  forests,  and  as  timber  was  plenty,  no  effort  was  made  toward 
economizing  the  supply.  Stacks  of  rails  would  be  piled  ready  for 
use  or  for  sale  only  to  be  later  devoured  by  prairie  fires  that  destroyed 
the  already  constructed  fences.  Wood  was  the  only  fuel  and  this 
was  used  steadily  for  more  than  thirty  years  after  the  first  timber 
had  been  felled  in  the  region  of  the  Green  Bay  Road,  while  steam- 
boats and  railroads,  that  followed  some  years  after  the  first  settlers, 
used  wood  as  fuel  continuously  until  the  early  eighties. 

So  the  magnificent  forests  seen  by  the  pioneer  were  fast  tending 
toward  destruction,  and  the  fact  that  the  actual  Lake  Shore,  with  its 
intercepting  ravines,  forbade  easy  transportation  of  material,  this 
particular  vicinity  would  also  have  suffered  the  fate  of  the  earlier 
settled  regions,  and  much  of  its  attractiveness  and  beauty — its  charm 
of  the  present — have  been  lost. 

In  this  day  of  agricultural  labor-saving  devices,  it  is  difficult  to 
bring  oneself  in  complete  sympathy  with  the  tiller  of  the  soil  at  a 
period  when  the  "back-breaking  cradle"  was  the  principal  harvest- 
ing machine  and  when  threshing  was  performed  by  a  vigorous  wield- 
ing of  the  flail  or  by  the  treading-out  process,  when  grass  was  cut 
with  a  scythe  in  the  hand  of  the  laborer,  and  the  hay  loaded  and 
unloaded  by  a  fork  in  the  hands  of  each  individual  of  a  group  of 
workers.  The  slow  process  of  hand-seeding  has  given  place  to  the 
more  expeditious  methods  of  "planter"  and  "cultivator"  devices. 
These  pioneer  settlers  wrought  and  struggled  and  conquered  under 
conditions  of  which  we  can  form  no  conception. 

Yesterday  the  plow  and  the  shovel  were  the  only  available  road- 
making  devices,  the  forests  being  stripped  in  order  to  corduroy 
marshy  places,  and  later,  when  sawmills  were  at  hand,  material  was 
provided  for  the  planking  of  roads.  Today,  over  highways  where  the 
ox  team  plodded  in  the  long  ago,  the  automobile  may  now  safely  pass 
at  a  speed  forbidden  by  most  of  the  municipalities  through  which  it 
recklessly  appropriates  right  of  way. 

Road-making  has  not  yet  reached  perfection,  to  be  sure,  but  Lake 
County  has  some  finely  constructed  highways,  quite  a  few  of  which 
stretch  over  trails  associated  with  a  past  that  must  ever  be  of  interest 
to  those  who  realize  that  the  fostering  of  tradition  and  legendary 
lore  ultimately  trends  to  poetical  expression,  either  by  pen  or  by 
brush.  In  other  words,  an  art,  national  of  type,  can  never  be  evolved 
without  tradition  and  legend  upon  which  to  build  and  create  the 
coloring  of  bygone  periods. 

Township  organization  was  not  adopted  in  Lake  County  until 
1850,  and  the  first  county  seat  was  established  on  the  site  now 
occupied  by  Libertyville  and  designated  Burlington.  The  county  was 
divided  into  sixteen  townships,  four  of  which  border  Lake  Michigan, 
and  three  of  these,  Waukegan,  Shields  and  Deerfield  become  of 
particular  interest  in  this  present  narrative  of  the  North  Shore. 


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GYMNASIUM 
Lake  Forest  College 


LAKE  FOREST— THE  COLLEGE  CITY 
OF  THE  NORTH  SHORE 

When  courage  fails,  or  hopes  are  dying, 

Our  thoughts  shall  ever  turn  to  thee; 
Our  watchword  be,  till  time  is  ended, 

"For  God,  Lake  Forest,  Victory!" 

Alvah  W.  Doran  ('93. ) 

THE  story  of  Lake  Forest  is  so  closely  affiliated  with  its  educational 
institutions  that  one  cannot  be  written  without  aid  of  the  other. 
Yet  is  there  a  period  when  the  first  white  settler  came,  when  the 
first  little  dun-colored  structure,  designated  "home,"  appeared  on 
the  old  Indian  trail,  known  as  the  Green  Bay  Road.  This  was  in 
1834,  when  settlers  first  came  to  Lake  County,  and  at  the  time  when 
the  Indian  was  still  in  possession.  Perhaps  Otis  Hinckley,  who  built 
this  first  log  cabin,  came  as  a  hunter  and  a  trader  among  the  abor- 
igines. There  are  two  other  names  associated  with  him  at  this  period, 
that  of  Thomas  McLaughlin  and  John  Strong,  both  of  whom  had 
pioneer  homes  in  this  section  of  the  county. 

That  in  1838  there  were  young  folks  here  needing  an  education 
is  proven  by  the  fact  that  on  the  Green  Bay  Road,  and  in  the  vicinity 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

of  Lake  Forest,  one  William  Cunningham  taught  school  in  his  own 
house.  In  early  times,  not  only  in  Lake  County,  but  in  other  early 
settled  communities,  the  homes  were  frequently  used,  not  only  for 
school  purposes,  but  for  religious  services.  Of  these  homes,  in  the 
middle  thirties,  and  of  the  descendants  of  the  families  occupying  the 
same,  the  writer  has  been  unable  to  gather  very  little  that  is  pertinent 
to  this  present  narrative.  But  those  who  traverse  this  section  of  the 
old  Indian  trail,  which  later  became  the  military  Highway,  and  now 
one  of  the  fine  driveways  of  the  county,  will  note  with  interest,  the 
past  and  the  present  closely  allied  in  the  home  architecture. 

At  this  particular  point  the  Skokie  Valley  begins  to  develop  a 
picturesqueness  that  becomes  more  and  more  attractive  as  one  travels 
southward.  Its  finest  development  in  this  vicinity  is  at  the  extreme 
south  of  Lake  Forest.  Just  at  this  terminating  point  the  Green  Bay 
Road  assumes  some  altitude,  its  eastern  boundary  being  marked  by 
beautifully  rising  ground,  said  to  be  the  highest  point  between  Chicago 
and  Milwaukee,  which  designates  the  home  site  of  Mr.  J.  Kuppen- 
heimer.  This  acreage  evidently  covers  much  of  traditional  import  in 
connection  with  the  Indian  occupation.  A  very  important  village 
must  have  been  here  located,  and  its  position,  together  with  the  fact 
that  the  Skokie  is  visible  for  miles,  suggests  its  occupation  by  the 
representatives  of  various  tribes  during  a  session  of  Council.  This 
site  has  yielded  rich  finds  of  almost  everything  associated  with  the 
occupancy  of  the  Indian,  while  the  student  becomes  imbued  with  the 
thought,  that  here,  long,  long  before  the  red  man  held  his  councils, 
another  nation  builded  mounds  and  earthworks.  From  this  particular 
point  of  vantage  the  Skokie  is  plainly  seen  trending  sinuously  toward 
the  south.  It  reaches  its  culmination  of  scenic  beauty  and  the  charm 
of  far-reaching  distances,  in  Highland  Park. 

Those  building  modern  homes  on  the  west  side  of  the  Green  Bay 
Road,  in  Lake  Forest,  have  faced  them  toward  the  valley,  with 
driveways  as  an  outlet  to  the  historic  highway,  while  the  earlier  homes, 
those  that  succeeded  the  log  cabin  period  and  a  decade  or  so  later, 
are  found  fronting  the  same  highway,  with  lovely  undulations  trend- 
ing toward  the  valley.  It  is  here,  and  just  a  little  north  of  West- 
minster Avenue,  where  a  group  of  the  pioneer  band  of  settlers  to  Lake 
Forest  came.  On  one  particular  site,  now  occupied  by  a  charming 
structure  of  frame — somewhat  old-fashioned  in  style  maybe,  but  with 
interior  modern  as  any  up-to-date  city  mansion,  that  legend  centers 
in  the  beginnings  of  Lake  Forest. 

The  log  cabin,  which  stood  a  few  feet  to  the  north,  was  retained 
many  years  after  it  had  been  abandoned  as  a  home,  from  a  feeling 
of  sentiment.  In  this  cabin  was  born  on  March  i,  1843,  William 
Atteridge,  who  ultimately  became  one  of  the  four  original  students 
in  the  first  graduating  class  ('62)  of  the  Lake  Forest  Academy.  The 
distinction  is  also  claimed  that  Mr.  Atteridge  was  the  first  white  child 
born  on  the  North  Shore  within  the  limits  of  Lake  County. 

Miss  Fanny  Atteridge,  the  sister  of  Thomas,  and  who  is  residing 
in  the  pleasant  homestead  before  mentioned,  was  also  born  in  the  log 
home  and  was  one  of  the  first  students  to  graduate  from  Ferry  Hall. 
There  are  some  interesting  legends  connected  with  the  Atteridge  log 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

home.     Mrs.  Atteridge,  the  mother,  was  a  Miss  Mary  Cole,  and  she 
lived  to  the  ripe  age  of  ninety-six. 

When  Mrs.  Atteridge  first  came  to  live  in  the  log  cabin  on  the 
Green  Bay  Trail,  the  Indians  had  not  yet  left  the  vicinity,  and  she 
used  to  see  them  frequently  passing  back  and  forth,  while  others, 
without  invitation,  would  walk  in  and  stretch  themselves  in  front  of 
the  hearth.  This  proves  the  confidence  with  which  the  earlier  settlers 
looked  upon  the  Indian.  Most  of  them  in  their  hearts  held  him  as 
an  object  of  commiseration,  and  treated  him  accordingly.  The  door 
was  ever  on  the  latch  for  either  wanderer,  be  he  Indian  or  white  man. 
Miss  Atteridge  says  her  mother  "knew  no  fear." 

Another  time,  seeing  an  Indian  passing  with  his  blanket  tucked 
snugly  around  him,  the  weather  being  chilly,  and  with  no  covering 
on  his  head,  Mrs.  Atteridge  bethought  her  of  an  old  hat  belonging  to 
her  husband,  and  taking  it  in  her  hand,  hurried  after  the  lone  Indian 
along  the  Green  Bay  Trail.  He  took  it  from  her  and  really  seemed 
grateful  for  it,  put  it  on  his  head  and  resumed  his  dogged  trot,  while 
Mrs.  Atteridge  hastened  to  the  shelter  of  her  snug  home.  After  some 
little  time  had  elapsed,  the  door  of  the  cabin  opened,  and  in  walked 
the  Indian,  and  without  sign  or  gesture,  laid  the  hat  at  her  feet.  He 
had  evidently  given  it  a  trial  and  it  had  been  found  wanting,  at  least 
in  his  Indian  intelligence. 

Mrs.  Atteridge  also  used  to  love  to  tell  of  the  French  Canadians, 
who  from  time  to  time  would  enter  the  cabin  and  seek  permission  to 
cook  by  her  fire.  Of  course,  the  hospitality  of  the  wilderness  demanded 
that  this  favor  should  be  granted  and  our  early  settlers  became  accus- 
tomed to  these  demands.  The  French  Canadians  of  whom  Mrs.  Atter- 
idge tells,  were  in  all  probability  hunters  and  traders,  leading  a  more 
or  less  adventurous  life,  keeping  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  streams 
principally,  but  frequently  portaging  quite  long  distances  over  the 
well-known  trails.  But  all  these  legends  add  to  the  interest  of  the 
vicinity,  and  it  is  a  pity  that  so  much  of  this  has  escaped  us,  simply 
because  we  have  been  so  energetic  in  our  trend  toward  everything 
that  is  commercial. 

This  Atteridge  farm  is  on  a  very  historical  site.  Miss  Atteridge 
has  a  wonderful  collection  of  Indian  relics  found  during  the  first  early 
ploughings,  and  she  treasures  them  with  the  right  kind  of  sentiment. 
Her  mother's  spinning  wheel,  brought  from  Ireland  together  with  her 
reel  and  butter  print,  and  an  old  violin  belonging  to  her  father  are 
among  the  heirlooms  of  this  family,  who  at  one  period  owned  most 
of  that  which  is  designated  Lake  Forest.  Other  descendants  of  this 
pioneer  family  are  living  in  the  vicinity  and  the  third  generation  is 
in  attendance  at  the  Lake  Forest  College. 

Lake  Forest  is -wonderfully  favored  by  nature,  and  it  was  fortunate 
that  its  early  projectors,  grasping  the  possibilities  of  this  favored  site, 
sought  to  add  to,  rather  than  detract  from  its  magnificence.  It  is 
located  on  a  bluff  varying  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  feet  above 
Lake  Michigan,  with  a  delightful  stretch  of  sandy  beach  forming  the 
boundary  of  the  waters.  This  bluff'  is  a  dream,  so  tender  and  artistic 
has  been  the  care  bestowed  upon  it.  It  trends  inward  and  outward 
in  corrugated  sections,  and  here  the  landscapist  has  draped  with  the 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST       AND       PRESENT 

loveliest  collection  of  tree  and  shrub  growth,  much  of  it  indigenous, 
a  number  of  small  trails  or  by-ways  leading  to  the  water.  It  is  all 
so  natural  that  one  feels  as  if  no  hand  ever  directed  those  downward 
trending,  shaded  by-ways  which  are  a  part  of  the  magnificent  park 
on  the  plateau  above,  for  Lake  Forest  has  preserved  much  of  its  lake 
front  as  a  public  pleasure  ground. 

Intercepted  by  curving  ravines,  the  streets  take  their  way  accord- 
ingly by  the  aid  of  bridges,  and  the  whole  of  the  city  is  as  far  as  the 
boundary  of  the  electric  road  and  the  Chicago  and  North- Western 
Railroad,  as  one  big  domain  of  curving  highways  and  byways  shaded 
by  the  richest  of  tree  growth.  Very  few  of  the  fine  homes  are  visible 
from  the  street,  as  the  grounds  adjoining  each  are  undulating  parks. 
Gardens  are  brought  into  subtle  view  through  the  most  charming 
vistas  of  lordly  tree  growth.  The  landscape  architect  who  conceived 
this  exquisite  method  of  designing  a  city  was  a  Mr.  Hotchkiss  of 
St.  Louis. 

Lake  Forest  is  a  college  center  and  as  such  it  was  devised.  If 
environment  has,  as  we  believe,  anything  to  do  with  the  moulding  of 
character,  what  ought  we  to  expect  of  those  who  are  privileged  to 
attend  college  under  conditions  which  tend  to  develop  all  that  is 
best  in  young  manhood  and  young  womanhood.  It  is  little  wonder 
that  Alma  Mater  at  Lake  Forest  draws  the  student  body  into  closer 
affiliation  with  the  true  spirit  of  brotherhood,  and  that  her  sons  and 
daughters  seek,  through  their  active  alumni  associations,  to  make  the 
annual  gatherings  suggestive  of  the  coming  together  of  one  family. 

In  February,  1856,  the  Lake  Forest  Association  came  into  being. 
It  was  conceived  by  those  who  desired  to  establish  an  educational 
institution  within  a  country  environment ;  remote  from  Chicago,  but 
at  the  same  time  near  enough  to  the  latter  to  derive  metropolitan 
advantages.  Thirteen  hundred  acres  were  purchased  by  this  organiza- 
tion. Half  of  this  acreage  was  set  apart  as  Association  property,  and 
Lake  Forest  was  platted  and  recorded  in  1857,  each  alternate  lot 
being  assigned  as  a  university  endowment,  sixty-two  acres  set  apart 
as  an  inalienable  campus. 

In  1861  Lake  Forest  was  incorporated  as  a  city,  and  by  an  Act 
of  the  Legislature  in  1865,  the  title  of  the  Lind  University  under 
which  the  charter  was  granted  to  the  proposed  institution  when  first 
under  contemplation,  was  changed  to  that  of  the  Lake  Forest  Univer- 
sity. The  first  steps  toward  establishing  a  preparatory  school  for  boys 
was  in  the  fall  of  1858,  when  the  Lake  Forest  Academy  came  into 
being.  In  1869  a  similar  school  was  established  for  girls  by  means  of 
a  thirty-five  thousand  dollar  legacy  from  the  Rev.  William  Montague 
Ferry  of  Grand  Haven,  Michigan,  and  Ferry  Hall  was  born. 

In  1870  the  Lake  Forest  Hotel  and  Manufacturing  Company  pur- 
chased three  hundred  acres  of  the  endowment  lands,  and  on  the 
shores  of  the  Lake,  erected  a  very  fine  hotel  six  stories  in  height  and 
thoroughly  equipped.  For  five  years  the  company  conducted  this 
hostelry  at  a  loss,  and  in  order  to  cancel  its  indebtedness  it  turned 
over  the  hotel  and  its  twelve  acres  of  park  to  the  University.  A 
commodious  and  convenient  building  was  now  in  the  hands  of  the 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND       PRESENT 

trustees,  and  a  college  was  organized.  The  Rev.  Robert  W.  Patter- 
son, D.D.,  of  the  Second  Presbyterian  Church,  Chicago,  came  to  the 
college  as  its  first  president,  serving  in  that  capacity  until  1878. 

Until  September,  1876,  there  was  no  collegiate  institute  of  high 
grade,  not  under  State  control,  where  a  woman  might  receive  the 
same  educational  facilities  as  those  offered  to  men,  and  on  the  date 
named,  eight  young  men  and  four  young  women  entered  Lake  Forest 
College,  as  pioneers  in  the  system  of  co-education.  In  1887  the 
college  building  was  destroyed  by  fire.  One  hundred  thousand  dollars 
was  quickly  raised  for  a  new  building,  and  in  1878  the  Rev.  Daniel 
S.  Gregory,  D.D.,  of  Wooster  University,  came  to  the  presidency. 

The  building  now  known  as  College  Hall  was  erected  in  1878, 
chapel,  library,  recitation  rooms  and  dormitories  being  under  one  roof. 
The  Academy  building  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1879,  but  the  same 
year  a  new  Academy,  and  three  other  structures,  were  erected. 

Most  of  the  present  College  buildings  are  monuments  to  the  kindly 
benefactions  of  Lake  Forest's  distinguished  citizens.  These  structures 
not  only  add  extension  to  college  facilities  but  the  artistic  atmosphere 
is  enhanced  by  the  well  selected  plans  of  exterior  and  interior.  The 
Durand  Institute,  the  Lois  Durand  Hall,  the  Calvin  Durand  Commons, 
the  Alice  Home,  are  all  associated  with  the  beneficence  of  one  family; 
and  the  same  might  be  said  of  the  charming  group  of  buildings  known 
as  Reid  Hall,  the  Lily  Reid  Memorial  Chapel,  and  the  Reid  Library 
and  Cloister,  the  Blackstone  Hall  and  the  Blackstone  dormitories  and 
the  Harlan  Hall,  while  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie  (not  a  resident)  but 
of  public  library  fame,  donated  a  Science  Hall. 

In  short,  Lake  Forest  College  shows  a  group  of  finely  equipped 
structures,  designed  for  the  work  of  its  students,  collectively  as  well 
as  individually,  while  its  faculty,  under  the  aggressive  and  progressive 
spirit  of  President  Scholte  Nollen,  are  pushing  toward  efficiency  in 
the  several  departments  of  learning  and  study,  with  the  result  that 
the  past  year  is  characterized  by  the  largest  enrollment  of  students 
in  the  history  of  the  College.  Of  the  eighteen  members  composing 
the  body  of  trustees,  twelve  are  residents  of  Lake  Forest,  four  of 
Chicago,  one  of  Evanston  and  one  of  Milwaukee.  Mr.  John  V.  Farwell 
is  president  of  the  official  board,  while  the  name  of  Mr.  Cyrus  H. 
McCormick  appears  on  the  roll  of  most  of  the  active  committees. 

A  unique  feature  of  the  College  student  life  is  found  in  the  fact 
that  both  men  and  women  are  housed  and  fed  upon  the  campus,  the 
men  rooming  in  four  dormitories  with  every  modern  convenience  for 
their  well-being,  taking  their  meals  at  the  Calvin  Durand  Commons, 
while  the  women  students  live  in  the  beautiful  Lois  Durand  Hall, 
its  accommodation  providing  for  sixty-two  in  a  home  that  is  ideal  in 
every  respect. 

Lake  Forest,  with  its  blessed  out-of-doors  significance,  with  a 
water  supply  of  the  purest,  with  a  sewage  system  of  the  best,  with 
streets  kept  in  condition  by  a  top  dressing  that  precludes  any  possi- 
bility of  inconvenience  from  dust,  with  neither  smoke  of  factory  nor 
other  undesirable  structures  at  hand,  presents  many  advantages  to 
college  students  seeking  an  environment  conducive  to  health  and  the 
best  educational  facilities.  Its  college  campus  is  an  inspiration. 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST       AND       PRESENT 

There,  while  the  last  century  was  in  budding  promise  for  American 
progressiveness  in  empire-building,  the  Pottawattomies,  one  of  the 
most  aggressive  as  well  as  intelligent  of  the  Indian  tribes,  trod  the 
trails  with  softly-moccasined  feet,  in  pursuit  of  the  gentle  and  graceful 
creature  of  the  forest,  which  abounded  in  this  vicinity. 

Today,  glad  voices  mingle  in  enthusiasm  as  the  modern  sports, 
football,  basketball,  baseball  and  track  exercises  occupy  their  respect- 
ive places  of  merit  as  a  pastime  amid  much  of  the  original  forest 
environment,  for  Lake  Forest  has  zealously  guarded  its  native  tree 
growth. 

One  of  its  leading  thoroughfares  preserves  in  its  title  its  former 
significance.  Deerpath  Avenue  was  an  old  hunting  trail,  while  the 
Deerpath  Inn  occupies  the  former  site  of  a  hunter's  cabin.  Before 
its  evolution  into  the  present,  neat,  well-equipped  hostelry,  however, 
it  was  one  of  the  early  homesteads  of  Lake  Forest,  having  been  built 
by  the  late  Colonel  Johnson  and  occupied  by  him  and  his  family  for 
many  years.  Nestled  in  its  beautiful  tree  growth,  the  Deerpath  Inn, 
which  is  just  east  of  the  charmingly  arranged  depot  of  the  Chicago 
and  Milwaukee  Electric  Railroad,  presents  an  attractive  feature  as 
one  enters  Lake  Forest  at  this  particular  point.  All  business  structures 
are  west  of  the  railroad,  the  east  side  being  devoted  to  residence  and 
college  purposes. 

The  Onwentsia  Club  of  Lake  Forest  has  long  been  associated  with 
equine  sports  as  well  as  with  that  of  golf.  Its  annual  horse  shows 
are  a  feature  of  entertainment  eagerly  sought  and  thoroughly  well 
appreciated  by  North  Shore  residents  who  have  not  lost  all  interest 
in  that  which  constitutes  breeding  and  style  in  this  noble  animal  as 
well  as  good  equestrianship  and  easy  and  graceful  driving,  on  the 
part  of  both  men  and  women. 

Should  Lake  Forest  develop  its  shore  line  as  is  anticipated,  it  will 
become  one  of  the  most  perfect  centers  for  aquatic  sports,  as  well  as 
the  most  artistically  finished  line  of  shore  on  either  of  the  Great 
Inland  Lakes.  Mrs.  Harold  F.  McCormick  has  given  this  subject 
much  thought  and  has  had  the  project  put  into  practical  form  by 
engineers  who  are  authorities  on  the  subject  by  issuing  an  illustrated 
booklet  in  which  are  given  estimates  of  the  proposed  work  of  con- 
struction, each  part  of  the  work  being  itemized  in  separate  expense. 
The  idea  is  to  have  lagoons  for  sports,  to  establish  a  yacht  harbor 
opposite  the  public  park  whose  dimensions  shall  accommodate  the 
largest  steam  yachts,  as  well  as  the  smaller  craft  sailing  the  waters 
of  Lake  Michigan,  and  afford  a  refuge  for  yachts  coasting  the  shore 
line  or  running  long  racing  distances  on  the  Lake.  The  project  is  a 
feasible  one,  and  the  motive  of  its  originator  calls  for  appreciation. 
Lake  Michigan,  as  we  know,  is  anything  but  encouraging  to  aquatic 
sports.  There  are  no  adequate  shelter  places  for  such  outside  the 
city  limits  of  Chicago.  A  properly  equipped  water  front  would  add 
to  the  many  advantages  already  possessed  by  this  queen  city  of  the 
North  Shore. 


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Charles  S.  Frost,  Architect 


NEW  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH 
Highland  Park,   111. 


HIGHLAND  PARK— THE  NORTH  SHORE 
PIONEER  OF  COUNTRY  SEATS 

"The  fathers — the  men  who  thought 
Of  all  the  future  held, 
And,  hearts  uplifted,  essayed  and  wrought 
All  the  work  their  dreams  compelled." 

FOLLOWING  Sheridan  Road,  after  it  passes  the  lovely  home  of 
Mr.  Frederick  Morgan  Steele,  and  the  dear  old  homestead  of 
the  Turnley  family,  in  Highland  Park,  the  highway  curves 
northward  in  close  proximity  to  the  Lake,  until  reaching  the  southern 
boundary  of  Fort  Sheridan  Government  Reservation,  it  trends  west- 
ward and  entering  the  latter,  again  proceeds  northward.  During  this 
time  the  tourist  has  been  covering  a  site  of  traditional  import  in 
connection  with  the  early  beginnings  of  this  beautiful  home  city. 
Apart  from  the  fact  that  all  this  territory,  as  well  as  that  lying  south- 
ward, is  of  Indian  legendary  significance,  its  evolution  into  the  city 
of  today,  possesses  tradition  and  legend  of  equal  interest. 

Just  within  the  enclosure  of  the  reservation  is  the  site  of  one  of 
the  earliest,  ambitious  undertakings  on  this  portion  of  the  North  Shore. 
In  1845  a  sawmill  and  a  warehouse  were  erected,  while  a  pier  of  con- 
siderable length  reached  like  a  long  arm  out  into  the  lake.  The  site 
was  known  as  St.  Johns,  and  for  a  period  it  received  quite  a  boom, 
for  many  settlers  found  their  way  here,  and  home-building  began  in 
earnest.  But  the  title  to  the  land  became  involved  in  litigation  and 
the  enterprise  was  finally  abandoned,  while  the  town  plat  was  declared 
void.  This  small  beginning  was  but  the  prelude  to  the  other  singing 
activities  that  were  to  soon  begin  on  its  southern  border,  and  which 


Page  fifty-three 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


THE  OLD  PORT  CLINTON  LIGHTHOUSE 


were  destined  to  evolve  themselves  into  that  grand  orchestration  of 
Nature,  among  the  harmonies  of  which  "Home,  Sweet  Home!" 
became  the  leading  theme  toward  a  City  Beautiful. 

Port  Clinton,  as  this  second  venture  toward  a  town  was  known, 
had  its  site  also  on  the  Lake  shore,  while  its  promoters  cherished  the 
ambition  that  it  would  be  not  only  a  rival  of  Little  Fort,  but  possibly 
of  both  Milwaukee  and  Chicago.  Ambitions  ran  at  fever  heat  in  those 
days,  for  everything  was  couleur  de  rose  to  those  who  came  and  dared. 
This  second  town  made  a  most  promising  start  in  1850.  A  steam 
sawmill  was  doing  a  thriving  business,  and  from  its  pier,  even  of  more 
extensive  proportions  than  its  predecessor,  were  shipped  large  quan- 
tities of  wood  and  lumber. 

Tradition  says  that  200,000  feet  of  oak  plank  was  shipped  in  one 
year  from  this  pier  to  Chicago  for  the  building  of  plank  roads.  Large 
quantities  of  wood  for  fuel,  together  with  wagon  materials,  and  "  ships 
knees"  were  also  loaded  into  the  white-winged  vessels  that  had  now 
begun  to  skim  the  waters  of  the  Lake  in  the  interests  of  commerce. 
In  the  manufacture  of  "ships  knees"  Port  Clinton  became  a  close 
rival  of  Little  Fort,  both  places  shipping  to  New  York  and  Baltimore. 

Westward  from  the  lake  the  farmers  had  begun  to  grow  grain, 
and  the  warehouse  at  Port  Clinton  held  this  in  storage  while  awaiting 
shipment.  The  United  States  Government  had  established  and  main- 
tained a  lighthouse  here,  and  soon  a  brickyard  was  started,  the  father 
of  the  late  Washington  Hesing,  one  of  Chicago's  mayors,  being  the 
projector  of  the  same.  A  postoffice  was  established  in  1850,  and  a 


Page  fifty-jour 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 


Photo  by  Beniin 


HOME  OF  MR.  FRANK  P.  HAWKINS 

Highland  Park,  111. 
(The  third  house  built  on  the  east  side) 


wagon  express.  It  is  said  that  the  postmaster  slept  with  the  mail  bag 
under  his  bed,  and  his  gun  under  his  pillow. 

Just  at  the  eastern  termination  of  the  lovely  Ravine  Drive  in 
Highland  Park  another  little  community  budded  into  life  and  did 
considerable  business  in  the  shipping  of  wood  and  lumber  from  a 
point  of  vantage  known  as  "Stowell's  Pier."  In  1854  cholera  found 
its  victims  in  both  of  these  little  bustling,  thriving  lumber  sites,  and 
the  first  to  succumb  to  its  dire  effects  was  Andrew  Steele,  who  had 
been  the  leading  spirit  in  the  Port  Clinton  project,  and  was  its  most 
prominent  merchant.  His  wife  died  the  same  day,  while  others  in  the 
vicinity,  as  well  as  throughout  the  county,  succumbed  to  the  same 
epidemic.  But  for  these  unforeseen  circumstances  Port  Clinton  might 
have  developed  into  a  lumber  region,  and  the  forest  growth,  that  is 
now  such  a  marvel  of  beauty  in  Highland  Park,  have  degenerated  into 
unsightly  stumps. 

After  the  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  Railroad  had  established  a 
station,  effort  was  made  by  the  Port  Clinton  Land  Company  to  build 
a  town  in  its  vicinity.  The  present  hotel,  west  of  the  depot,  is  a 
pioneer  structure  of  that  day  and  was  then  known  as  the  "Central." 
This  particular  site  was  platted  in  1855,  and  among  the  stockholders 
of  the  company  appear  the  names  of  most  of  the  substantial  business 
men  of  that  time,  all  residents  of  Chicago.  One  of  these,  Mr.  Walter 


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BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


S.  Gurnee,  ultimately  purchased  all  the  stock  of  the  company,  and 
became  the  owner  of  its  property. 

In  1867  a  special  charter  was  granted  to  the  Highland  Park 
Building  Company  by  Act  of  the  General  Assembly,  and  a  corporation 
embodying  the  above  title  was  then  organized,  and  Mr.  Gurnee  sold 
the  entire  property  of  the  Port  Clinton  Land  Company  to  the  Highland 
Park  Building  Company.  The  stockholders  of  the  latter  were  mostly 
citizens  of  Chicago,  and,  Mr.  Frank  P.  Hawkins  was  appointed  its 
general  agent  and  manager.  In  1869  Highland  Park  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city  and  Mr.  Hawkins  became  its  first  mayor.  He  still 
lives  in  one  of  the  first  three  homes  erected  east  of  the  railroad  in 
that  city,  and  is  the  pioneer  builder  of  the  first  ten  residences  erected 
between  Highland  Park  and  Glencoe. 


Courtesy  Bahr,  Bowen  Co.,  Landscape  Engineers 

WAVERLY  AVENUE  BRIDGE 
Reinforced  Concrete,  Designed  by  H.  L.   Bowen 

The  Port  Clinton  lighthouse,  having  served  its  purpose,  was 
abandoned,  but  stood  as  an  old  landmark,  picturesque  yet  pathetic 
in  its  ruined  and  unkempt  condition  until  about  ten  years  ago,  when 
it  was  destroyed.  But  its  tradition  remains,  and  the  writer  of  this 
present  work,  has  been  fortunate  enough  to  gather  a  few  of  the  inter- 
esting legends  associated  with  it.  The  lighthouse  projected  some 
distance  from  the  present  bluff  where  Sheridan  Road,  after  trending 
eastward,  curves  to  the  north,  giving  a  broad,  expansive  view  of  the 
lake.  On  the  bluff  itself  was  a  fine  orchard  and  garden  for  the  keeper 
of  the  lighthouse  and  his  family.  Its  first  and  only  keeper  was  Owen 
Monaghan.  The  bit  of  parchment  containing  his  appointment  is  one 
of  the  precious  heirlooms  of  a  daughter,  born  in  the  lighthouse,  and 
her  children.  It  was  a  proud  day  when  the  Port  Clinton  mail  brought 
the  following: 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

"Treasury  Department,  Washington,  D.  C.,  July  1st,  1856. 

"Sir,  you  are  appointed  Keeper  of  the  Lighthouse  at  Port  Clinton,  Illinois,  at 
a  salary  of  Three  Hundred  and  Fifty  Dollars  per  ann." 

(Signed)  James  Gu — (the  rest  of  signature  undecipherable) 

Secretary. 
To  Owen  Monaghan. 

Deer  abounded  in  the  neighboring  forest,  and  the  lighthouse  keeper 
shot  many  a  one  on  the  edge  of  the  bluff.  Wolves  were  not  altogether 
strangers  at  this  period  and  in  this  vicinity  the  children's  "bogey" 
was  "  Hush!  the  wolf  will  hear  you  cry!" 

On  the  site  now  occupied  by  a  charming  home  in  the  Spanish 
mission  style  of  architecture,  and  bearing  the  pretty  Spanish  designa- 
tion of  "Miralago,"  meaning  "Behold  the  Lake!"  the  view  of  its 
waters  from  this  point  being  superbly  grand,  originally  stood  the 
homestead  of  the  Monaghan  family.  On  the  edge  of  a  small  ravine 
that  picturesquely  cuts  through  a  portion  of  the  lawn,  is  seen  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  weeping  willow.  When  the  wife  of  the  light- 
house keeper  was  a  young  woman  she  planted  a  sprig  of  willow — 
never  dreaming  it  would  grow — which  had  been  brought  to  her  by  a 
Catholic  priest  from  the  grave  of  the  Great  Napoleon.  In  its  alien 
environment  it  grew  and  flourished,  until  now  it  has  become  a  land- 
mark of  wonderful  grace  and  beauty. 

A  little  distance  westward,  and  in  a  home,  the  center  of  which 
was  built  for  a  schoolhouse  by  the  Port  Clinton  Company  and  which 
was  also  used  for  religious  purposes,  resides  Mrs.  Mary  Josephine  Cox, 
a  married  daughter  of  Sarah  and  Owen  Monaghan.  Mrs.  Cox  was 
born  in  the  lighthouse.  She  has  this  remembrance  of  the  wreck  of 
the  Lady  Elgin:  A  body  of  a  well-dressed  woman  having  on  a  hoop 
skirt  and  wearing  a  long  gold  chain  attached  to  a  watch,  being  washed 
ashore  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lighthouse  and  the  identity  being  estab- 
lished some  long  time  after  the  remains  had  been  laid  to  rest.  The 
little  red  brick  schoolhouse  which  followed  the  pioneer  structure  of 
frame,  is  still  a  feature  of  this  neighborhood,  being  used  as  a  boy's 
club.  In  early  days,  it,  too,  was  used  for  religious  services. 

The  site  of  the  Moraine  Hotel  is  also  included  in  this  old  Port 
Clinton  venture.  The  following  legend  is  associated  with  the  ravine 
that  gashes  this  property,  in  a  horseshoe  curve  formation.  During 
the  time  of  the  construction  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  in 
1855,  a  band  of  counterfeiters  were  unearthed  here.  Everything  of 
their  outfit,  with  the  exception  of  the  counterfeit  plates,  was  dis- 
covered and  two  of  the  men  were  captured,  tried  and  committed. 
The  third,  who  was  the  maker  of  the  plates,  could  not  be  found. 

Twenty  years  afterward  Judge  H.  W.  Blodgett  in  driving  home 
to  Waukegan  from  Chicago,  when  in  the  neighborhood  of  Deerfield, 
overtook  an  old  man  toiling  along  by  the  wayside.  The  Judge  proffered 
him  a  seat  in  his  vehicle,  and  the  man  became  chatty  and  appeared 
to  know  the  Judge,  although  his  name  had  no  significance  to  the  latter. 
Before  Judge  Blodgett  set  the  man  down  at  his  destination  he  had 
promised  to  accept  at  some  future  time  an  invitation  to  call  at  the 
home  of  his  companion,  who  intimated  he  had  a  "great  curiosity" 


Page  fifty-seven 


O   _: 
O  5 


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HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

that  might  "interest"  him.  A  day  came  when  the  Judge  recalled  his 
promise,  and  having  time  on  hand,  went  to  see  the  old  man.  He 
recalled  to  the  mind  of  the  eminent  jurist  the  trial  of  the  counter- 
feiters, in  which  he,  the  Judge,  then  a  young,  bright  attorney,  had 
a  part.  Then  inviting  him  to  an  inner  room,  in  which  was  a  bed, 
the  host  turned  up  one  of  the  mattresses  and  disclosed  to  view  the 
engraved  plates  used  in  the  making  of  the  counterfeit  bonds! 

"The  statute  of  limitation  has  expired,  Judge,"  said  the  old  man 
grimly,  "or  I  would  not  have  dared  to  show  you  these,  but  they  are 
my  work.  I  have  never  left  the  county;  have  had  the  plates  all  the 
time  in  my  possession,  and  never  even  changed  my  name.  You 
lawyers  are  not  so  smart,  after  all!"  The  Judge  acknowledged  it 
with  a  laugh.  He  knew,  as  the  counterfeiter  had  intimated,  the  case 
was  outlawed. 

As  in  the  traditions  of  other  cities  along  the  North  Shore  the  little 
dun-colored  structures  had  dotted  the  landscape  in  Highland  Park, 
even  before  the  platting  of  the  site  of  St.  Johns.  Legends  of  the 
log  cabin  period  should  be  cherished,  for,  after  all,  is  it  not  the  man 
who  blazed  the  trail,  he  who  came  to  the  wilderness  with  a  "  faith 
all  glorious"  to  make  a  home  for  himself  and  those  dear  to  him,  of 
whom  the  American  poet  that  is  yet  to  arrive,  shall  sing?  Yes,  our 
Homer  will  come,  for  the  Iliad  of  this  Middle  West  has  yet  to  be 
written.  So  let  us  never  forget  that  "we  only  hold  the  comfort 
within  and  the  peace  without  by  grace  of  the  men  of  old." 

About  seventy-seven  years  ago,  a  family  started  in  an  ox-team 
from  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  to  make  a  home  in  the  new  country  north 
of  Chicago,  now  within  the  township  of  Deerfield,  and  in  a  straight 
line  on  Central  Avenue  west  of  the  Green  Bay  Road.  The  little  daughter, 
now  a  woman  of  eighty-six  years,  still  hale  and  hearty,  was  held  in 
the  arms  of  her  mother  for  safety  as  they  passed  over  the  corduroy 
roads.  This  family  settled  on  one  hundred  acres  of  land,  where  a  log 
cabin  was  built,  and,  as  in  most  of  these  pioneer  homes  of  like  struc- 
ture, it  was  provided  with  two  doors  immediately  opposite  each  other. 
There  was  reason  for  this  architectural  design. 

Wood  was  the  only  fuel,  and  huge  logs  were  used  to  retain  the 
heat.  When  the  logs  were  ready  a  yoke  of  oxen  would  be  stationed 
outside  the  open  door  opposite  the  other  open  door  through  which 
the  log  was  to  be  brought.  A  chain  was  fastened  to  the  yoke  of 
oxen  and  the  end  trailed  across  the  floor  and  attached  to  the  log, 
which  had  first  been  drawn  into  position  near  the  other  door.  The 
oxen  were  now  urged  into  action  and  the  log  would  be  drawn  to  a 
place  where  it  might  easily  be  rolled  to  the  hearth. 

The  child  in  question  grew  to  young  womanhood,  and,  in  the 
meantime,  her  brother  had  become  acquainted  with  a  young  man 
about  his  own  age,  in  Chicago,  who  had  also  come  from  the  east  to 
look  for  opportunity  for  investment.  This  young  man  had  been  offered 
four  blocks  of  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Chicago  Avenue  for  eight  hundred 
dollars!  Before  coming  to  any  decision  he  went  with  his  friend  to 
their  country  home  in  Deerfield.  Here  he  found  he  could  get  eighty 
acres  for  eight  hundred  dollars.  Perhaps  the  bright  and  interesting 
sister  of  his  friend  had  something  to  do  with  his  decision  in  favor  of 


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BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


the  farm.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  was  a  case  of  love  at  first  sight,  and 
in  due  course  Philip  Brand  married  and  settled  down  to  his  future 
responsibilities  in  a  home  built  of  logs. 

To  this  couple  were  born  eight  children — five  sons  and  three 
daughters.  Of  this  family,  four  sons  and  two  daughters  survive,  all 
of  whom  are  still  living  in  the  township  of  Deerfield,  some  of  them 
long  time  citizens  of  Highland  Park.  Soon  after  her  marriage, 
Mrs.  Brand,  in  the  preparation  of  breakfast  reached  for  the  coffee, 
which  was  in  a  small  cupboard  built  against  the  wall.  She  felt  a  sharp 
sensation  of  pain  in  one  of  her  fingers,  and  quickly  withdrawing  her  hand, 
in  a  frightened  voice  told  her  husband  she  had  been  bitten  by  a  mouse. 

The  young  husband  looked  at  the  wound  but  said  nothing.  He 
took  a  lighted  tallow  dip  and  investigated  the  cupboard.  There, 
coiled  on  a  plate,  lay  a  rattlesnake.  After  disposing  of  the  same  he 
ran  to  the  nearby  neighbors  and  told  them  what  had  happened.  They 
went  to  his  wife,  while  he — for  no  one  had  a  horse — ran  for  a  doctor, 
the  nearest  being  stationed  at  Dutchman's  Point,  some  twelve  miles 
distant ! 

The  early  settlers  were  more  or  less  familiar  with  a  kind  of  "  first 
aid"  remedy  and  they  administered  to  the  needs  of  the  young  wife, 
binding  the  arm  tightly  from  wrist  to  shoulder,  and  it  was  the  "  blood- 
letting" period  of  the  medical  fraternity!  However,  Mrs.  Brand  suf- 
fered no  material  injury.  She  still  bears  the  scar,  a  memento  of  those 
early,  anxious  days.  This  story  is  related  to  illustrate  one  of  the  many 
dangers  to  which  the  log  cabin  dwellers  were  subjected.  The  women 
required  brave  hearts  and  nerves  of  steel.  And  in  these  qualifications 
the  pioneer  mothers  of  the  North  Shore  were  not  found  wanting. 

In  1872-3,  the  southern  half  of  the  city  of  Highland  Park  was  put 
into  the  hands  of  Cleveland  and  French,  landscape  architects,  to  plan 
toward  an  evolution  of  highways  and  byways  that  should  be  artistic 
as  well  as  practicable,  for  the  promoters  of  the  project  had  long  since 
resolved  that  the  city  should  be  devoted  to  the  fostering  of  country 
homes.  For  assurance  that  the  projectors  and  landscape  architects 
succeeded  in  their  individual  parts,  it  is  only  necessary  to  take  just 
a  glimpse  at  the  Highland  Park  of  today.  The  French,  named  in  this 
partnership  is  no  less  a  personage  than  W.  M.  R.  French,  whose  name 
figures  large  in  the  evolution  of  the  Art  Institute  of  Chicago,  and 
who  for  many  years  has  been  its  able  director.  Mr.  French  had  grad- 
uated from  Harvard  in  1864,  practicing  civil  engineering  and  land- 
scape gardening  for  seven  years  before  he,  as  a  member  of  the  firm 
named,  sought  to  untangle  the  forest-bound  and  ravine-gashed  site 
of  Highland  Park.  The  highways,  no  matter  how  much  they  trend 
in  waving  beauty  toward  and  over  the  wooded  ravines  which  are 
bridged,  find  their  final  outlet  to  one  main  leading  street  bounded 
by  the  railroad. 

Highland  Park  has  always  been  a  city  of  good  roads.  The  writer 
recalls  these  roads  some  twenty-five  years  ago.  They  were  a  delight 
in  driving,  even  then.  Today  they  are  simply  magnificent.  The 
beautiful  spirit  manifested  by  this  burgh  in  their  careful  thought  of 
the  stranger  within  their  gates — each  street  being  clearly  defined  by 
name  which  is  printed  on  neat  guide  posts  at  street  intersections — is 


Page  sixty 


HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

only  equalled  by  their  generous  home  hospitality.  To  visit  Highland 
Park  is  to  be  brought  within  an  atmosphere  of  old-time  hospitality, 
coupled  with  a  modern  up-to-dateness  that  is  simply  enchanting.  It 
is  the  blending  of  the  true  and  the  beautiful  in  life,  this  rare  combina- 
tion of  refining  influences  that  has  ever  made  Highland  Park  a  desirable 
home  city. 

In  entering  Highland  Park,  the  Sheridan  Road  takes  its  way 
through  Ravinia  on  its  southern  border,  in  close  proximity  to  the 
Lake,  where  one  may  still  find  superb  acreages  for  those  desiring  the 
water  front.  Just  east  of  the  magnificent  Ravinia  Park,  and  at  this 
outlet's  intersection  with  the  Sheridan  Road,  is  a  tableland  of  some- 
thing less  than  twenty  acres,  rising  eighty  feet  above  the  Lake,  and 
belted  with  timber.  The  bluffs  at  this  particular  point  have  assumed 
corrugations  that  suggest  sculptor's  chisel.  On  the  plateau  above 
and  within  shelter  of  the  timber,  once  stood  a  log  cabin — the  home 
of  the  settler  who  cleared  and  farmed  the  land  in  the  long  ago.  Except 
the  clearing  there  is  nothing  to  suggest  the  home,  that  once  com- 
manded an  expansive  view  of  the  Lake.  But  a  pathetic  little  legend 
is  associated  with  the  spot.  There  was  a  well  dug  here  and  excellent 
water  obtained,  but  the  two  young  children  of  the  tiller  of  the  soil, 
met  their  death  by  falling  into  the  well.  This  fair  acreage,  lifting  in 
lovely  contour  from  the  Lake,  with  all  its  woodland  sweetness  and 
charm,  awaits  the  coming  of  the  builder  of  a  country  seat,  for  this 
is  its  destiny.  (Illustrations  page  62.) 

Highland  Park,  as  most  of  the  North  Shore  communities,  found 
its  most  prosperous  development  in  home-building,  east  of  the  rail- 
road and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Lake.  And  like  all  these 
communities,  too,  it  has  but  recently  awakened  to  the  fact,  that  west 
of  this  boundary  line,  and  at  an  altitude  of  from  one  hundred  and 
thirty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  Lake,  lies  a  most  fair 
land  of  promise,  and  whether  she  recognizes  it,  the  fact  remains,  that 
Highland  Park  between  the  county  line  and,  perhaps,  a  little  to  the 
north  of  the  Exmoor  Golf  Grounds  on  the  Green  Bay  Road,  has  the 
richest  and  finest  bit  of  the  Skokie  Valley  of  any  other  city  in  its 
historic  vicinity.  The  writer,  who  has  known  this  section,  and  who 
has  tramped  over  it,  from  Evanston  to  and  including  Lake  Forest,  for 
years,  knows  whereof  she  writes.  "  Upland,  Vale  and  Grove,  Seen 
from  a  Highway  of  Historic  Import, "  was  the  thought  born  of  this 
inspiration  from  the  Green  Bay  Road  and  the  beautiful  Valley  of  the 
Skokie,  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  Highland  Park. 

"Skokie?"  The  Indian  for  "marsh,"  says  one;  "bad  squaw,"  in 
the  same  language,  says  another.  But  have  you  seen  the  Skokie  after 
a  dry  Summer  and  Fall?  If  you  have  you  will  know  that  the  Indian 
named  it  rightly  when  he  gave  to  it  the  designation  of  "  Waub-Skokie,  " 
meaning  "land  fire."  Its  wonderful  peat  beds  have  almost  been 
consumed  since  the  Indian  so  designated  it.  Observing  its  red,  steady 
glow  creeping  sinuously  over  the  earth,  and  upland  and  grove  bathed 
in  ruddy  phantasmagoria,  he  was  awed  into  reverent  mood,  and 
among  all  his  gods,  that  of  "Waub-Skokie,"  the  "land-fire"  manitou, 
became  associated  with  a  mysticism  which  he  could  not  probe. 

At  an  early  period  of  the  settlement  of  Lake  County  log  cabins 


Page  sixty-one 


THE   BLUFFS  EAST  OF  RAVINIA  PARK 


PLATEAU  ON   BLUFFS  EAST  OF  RAVINIA  PARK 


Page  sixty-two 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS— PAST      AND       PRESENT 

were  dotted  here  and  yon  along  the  Green  Bay  Road  in  the  vicinity 
in  question.  These  gradually  gave  place  to  structures  of  frame  and 
of  brick,  the  present  Stipe  homestead  being  the  pioneer  in  the  latter 
material.  A  Catholic  Mission  church,  "St.  Mary's  in  the  Woods," 
was  here  in  1846,  intimating  there  were  settlers  in  that  vicinity  of 
the  faith  represented.  And  how  far  they  traveled,  the  majority  of 
the  members  of  this  congregation,  in  order  to  attend  mass  and  receive 
that  spiritual  comfort  from  which  their  sojourn  in  the  wilderness  had 
seemed  to  deprive  them !  This  little  log  church  was  not  in  any  way 
associated  with  Marquette's  missions,  as  has  been  erroneously  taught 
and  accepted.  Neither  Marquette  nor  his  immediate  followers  were 
in  this  neighborhood.  He  was  a  missionary  of  the  Jesuit  Order,  and 
it  was  the  same  religious  Order  that  promulgated  the  setting  up  of 
the  little  log  church  by  the  side  of  the  old  Indian  trail — converted 
into  a  military  road  in  1835 — and  the  same  Order  that  devised  its 
second  use  as  a  schoolhouse  during  the  week  day.  This  can  only  be 
the  chain  of  circumstances  connecting  it  with  the  name  of  the  good 
Father  Marquette. 

Today,  a  country  home  occupies  the  site  of  the  burial  ground  that 
was  attached  to  the  little  log  mission  church,  while  the  immediate 
site  of  the  latter  is  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  charming  lawn  and 
garden  fronting  the  old-time  trail.  How  quickly  historic  landmarks 
disappear!  And  who  would  recognize  this  particular  vicinity,  not 
having  seen  it  in  many  years?  The  old  is  little  blended  with  the  new, 
for  the  finely  cultivated  farmlands,  and  the  extensive  stock  farms 
have  disappeared.  While  the  highway  itself  is  macadamed  and  has 
a  top  dressing  which  precludes  dust,  and  along  its  smooth  surface 
speed  the  automobiles,  where  but  yesterday  wearily  plodded  the 
ox-cart. 

This  is  a  vicinity  of  large  acreages — the  ideal  site  for  country 
seats — and  here  they  are  coming  as  fast  as  appreciation  of  the  locality 
is  accepted.  From  off  the  old  trail,  trend  eastward  the  most  charmingly 
macadamed,  curving  highways.  The  lay  of  the  land  is  undulating  and 
crested  with  tree  growth  of  more  or  less  interest,  while  adown  the 
highways  trending  westward  are  glimpses  of  the  valley  beyond.  The 
little  red  schoolhouse  that  stood  on  the  hill,  and  which  became  a 
landmark  at  the  corner  of  Roger  Williams  Avenue  on  the  Green  Bay 
Road,  has  passed  away.  It  is  superseded  by  a  noble  structure  on  the 
corner  of  Lincoln  Avenue,  in  the  midst  of  delightful  parkways,  and 
commanding  a  view  of  the  charming  valley. 

Near  the  county  line  the  tourist  is  confronted  by  suggestions  of 
yesterday,  in  the  form  of  farmhouses.  The  west  entrance  to  Ravinia 
Park  is  at  this  point.  Yonder,  overlooking  the  valley,  is  a  frame 
house  which  superseded  the  log  cabin  of  one  of  the  early  settlers. 
Four  generations  of  the  same  family  have  trodden  these  byways  of  the 
past  and  are  now  far  afield  in  every  other  occupation  but  farming. 
The  representative  of  the  second  generation  is  a  hail  and  hearty  man. 
He  attended  school  in  "St.  Mary's  in  the  Woods;"  he  also  recalls 
memories  of  the  soldiers  passing  over  the  Green  Bay  Road  while  on 
their  way  to  or  from  Green  Bay,  Wisconsin,  and  Chicago.  Mr.  Hesler 
has  kept  pace  with  the  times.  He  has  not  given  any  attention  to 


Page  sixty-three 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


farming  for  years.  His  winters  are  spent  in  California  or  some  other 
congenial  clime,  while  he  returns  to  the  "old  farm"  in  summer  as  a 
matter  of  sentiment,  and  here  come  his  bonnie  grandchildren  from 
some  distant  part  of  the  state  to  spend  their  vacation,  to  climb  the 
trees  which  their  great-grandfather  planted,  and  slide  from  the  roofs 
of  the  unused  buildings  which  "grandpa"  erected  in  the  long  ago. 

The  women  of  Highland  Park,  organized  into  various  clubs,  are 
very  active  in  all  that  makes  for  a  city  healthful  and  beautiful.  The 
public  park  on  the  Lake  front,  is  left  in  as  natural  a  state  as  possible, 
and  on  the  broad  sandy  beach  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff  on  Central 
Avenue,  is  a  children's  playground,  equipped  with  every  gymnastic 
and  aquatic  device  for  the  pleasure  of  the  young  folks.  On  a  hot 
day  this  summer  the  writer  was  amused  for  the  best  part  of  an  hour 
watching  the  youngsters  launching  a  raft,  the  water  part  of  the  play- 
ground being  bounded  eastward  by  a  net-guard,  to  prevent  the  too 
adventurous  spirits  from  effectively  playing  "Columbus"  or  "Robin- 
son Crusoe. " 

The  Exmoor  Country  Club  is  located  in  the  picturesque  Valley  of 
the  Skokie.  No  more  ideal  environment  can  be  conceived  for  a  golf 
course,  with  its  lovely  emerald-hued  uplands  and  woodlands  holding 
within  their  tremulous  distances  an  atmosphere  that  is  invigorating 
and  inspiring.  Schools  and  churches  and  a  public  library,  aids  to  a 
city  set  apart  as  Highland  Park  is,  for  all  that  is  best  in  home-building, 
impress  the  visitor  with  the  fact  that  guardian  spirits  are  watching 
over  the  welfare  of  this  lovely  North  Shore  city. 


Photo  by  Beintn 


ROGER  WILLIAMS  AVENUE,  RAVINIA.  ILL. 


Page  sixty-four 


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THE  ORGAN  AND  STAIRCASE  AT  "  RIDGEWOOD' 

(Built  by  owner) 

Green  Bay  Road,  Highland  Park,  111. 
From  a  Pencil  Drawing  by  Miss  I.  M.  Kimball 


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Photo  by  B«mm 


HOME  OF  MR.  R.  J.  BEATTY 
515  South  Sheridan  Road    Highland  Park,  111. 


Photo  by  Benin: 


Page  hundred  and  two 


"BRENTWOOD" 

Home  of  Miss  Grace  Glidden 

Highland  Parlc.   111. 


Photo  by  Bemin 


HOME    OF    MR.    WALTER    WARDROP 
815  Lincoln  Avenue,  Highland  Park,  111. 


Photo  by  Bern 


HOME  OF  MR.  ROBERT  SEYFARTH 
South    Sheridan    Road,    Highland    Park,  111. 


Page  hundred  and  Jhree 


Photo  by  Hemni 


HOME  OF  MRS.  MAUD  HOLBROOK  SHANNON 
116  Moraine  Road,  Highland  Park,  111. 


Photo  by  Bern 


"BOSCOBEL" 

HOME  OF  THE  MISSES  IRWIN  AND  MRS.  H.  R.  RITCHIE 
222  Maple  Avenue,  Highland  Park,  111. 


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HOME  OF  MR.  FRITZ  BAHR 
Laurel  Avenue,  Highland  Park,  111. 


Photo  by  Heinni 


"TIMBERTOP" 

HOME  OF  MR.  GEORGE  C.  EBELING 
Ravinia,  111. 


Page  hundred  and  seven 


Photo  l>y  Bemi 


HOME  OF  MR.  HURT  J.  FITZGERALD 
868  Lincoln  Avenue,  Highland   Park,  111. 


Patton  &  Miller.  Architects 


THE  NEW  UNION  CHURCH 
Glencoe.  111. 


Page  hundred  and  eight 


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Photo  by  Benim 


HOME  OF  MR.  C.  P.  WHITNEY 
1637  Judson  Avenue,  Evanston.  111. 


I'holo  by  Ben 


HOME  OF  MR.  FRED  KAEMPFER 
7joo  North  Ashland  Avenue,  Birchwood,  Chicago 


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HALL,  HOME  OF  MR.  E.  D.  MOENG 
Oj^Columbia  Avenue,  Rogers  Park,  Chicago 


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Photo  by  Bemm 


HOME  OF  MR.  ROBERT  S.  SMITH 
Cumnor  Road,  Kenilworth,  111. 


THE    HIGHWAY    SOUTHWARD    TO    CHICAGO 

When  the  city's  rush  is  over,  and  the  monthly  ticket  shown, 
And  the  platform's  crowd  has  scattered  like  leaves  in  Autumn  blown, 
Then  the  engine  feels  the  throttle,  as  the  racer  feels  the  whip, 
And  sends  its  drivers  whirling  for  its  little  homeward  trip. 

Horace  Spencer  Fiske 

IN  the  vicinity  of  the  pretty  little  station  of  Braeside,  Chicago  & 
North  Western  Railroad,  or  at  the  nearby  county  line  station 
of  the  Chicago  &  Milwaukee  Electric  Railroad,  and  on  the  Cook 
County  side,  is  seen  a  venerable  tree  of  quaint  and  almost  forlorn 
aspect.  It  is  an  Indian  trail  tree.  A  farmer,  who  has  been  a  long- 
time resident  on  the  Green  Bay  Road,  is  fond  of  declaring  that  this 
is  "no  trail  tree."  In  short  he  ignores  all  tradition  associated  with 
the  Indian.  He  asserts  that  within  his  remembrance,  1866,  a  tornado 
"twisted"  this  particular  tree.  With  all  due  respect  to  his  observa- 
tion of  the  "tornado's"  havoc,  those  who  are  authorities  on  the  sub- 
ject, having  made  a  study  in  the  timbered  regions  frequented  by 
the  Indian,  know  for  certain  that  this  was  an  Indian  trail  tree  long 
before  the  "tornado"  undertook  to  rend  one  of  its  limbs.  The 
members  of  the  Lake  Shore  Country  Club  have  shown  a  praiseworthy 
sentiment,  as  well  as  a  keen  appreciation  of  an  old  historic  land- 
mark, by  affording  it  the  protection  of  a  neat  fence  against  the 
vandalism  that  walketh  abroad  to  destroy. 


Page  hundred  and  thirty-five 


Photo  by  Bemm 


INDIAN  TRAIL  TREE 
COUNTY  LINE  ROAD  AND  LAKE  SHORE  COUNTRY  CLUB 


Page  hundred  and  thirty-six 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND      PRESENT 

That  the  tree  in  question  was  in  its  sapling  period  bent  by  the 
Indian,  in  order  to  designate  a  particular  route,  there  is  no  doubt. 
The  early  hunters  appreciated  the  significance  of  such  landmarks; 
the  settlers  coming  later,  and  at  a  period  when  the  Indian  was  leaving 
the  territory,  also  realized  that  they  were  as  signposts  by  the  way. 
The  settler  himself  blazed  a  trail,  either  by  cutting  down  timber  or 
by  hacking  off  portions  of  the  bark,  and  the  North  Shore  is  rife  with 
legends  of  this  nature,  most  wonderful  stories  being  told  of  how 
"mother's  father  blazed  the  trees  while  walking  toward  Chicago," 
or  "to  Waukegan."  As  a  rule,  the  trails  of  the  Indian,  particularly 
when  marked  by  these  peculiar  trees,  proved  guide  sufficient  for  the 
early  settlers. 

Cook  County  was  named  as  a  compliment  to  the  Hon.  Daniel  P. 
Cook,  member  of  Congress,  and  Glencoe,  which  forms  the  county's 
northern  line  on  the  North  Shore,  was  originated  by  the  same  Walter 
S.  Gurnee  whose  name  figures  in  the  merging  of  Port  Clinton  into 
Highland  Park.  Mr.  Gurnee  was  impressed  by  the  glen-like  aspect 
of  the  vicinity,  and  then  gallantly  added  his  wife's  maiden  name 
of  Coe.  Glencoe  for  many  years  nestled  itself  within  such  rich  wood- 
land environment  as  to  forbid  an  attempt  at  acquaintance.  It  is 
now  a  suburb  of  distinction,  having  many  beautiful  homes,  some 
good  business  houses  and  a  bank,  and  its  citizens  have  just  erected 
a  magnificent  Union  Church,  costing  forty  thousand  dollars. 

The  Green  Bay  Road  in  this  vicinity  trends  eastward,  being  inter- 
sected by  the  railroad,  then  diverging  northward,  it  is  a  beautifully 
paved  highway,  paralleling  the  tracks  for  some  distance  when  it  again 
turns  westward  and  northward.  Melville  E.  Stone  of  Daily  News 
and  Associated  Press  fame,  built  the  first  pretentious  home  in  Glencoe, 
bridging  a  ravine  on  Sheridan  Road  before  the  necessary  material 
could  be  brought  to  the  selected  site.  Sheridan  Road  at  this  time 
was  little  more  than  a  wagon  trail,  and  impassable  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year.  The  Lake  Shore  Country  Club  and  the  Skokie  Country 
Club  are  both  within  the  corporate  limits  of  Glencoe.  Street  improve- 
ments in  the  southern  part  of  the  village  are  being  rapidly  pushed 
as  are  those  in  the  adjoining  suburb,  Hubbard  Woods. 

This  latter  place  was  originally  known  as  Taylorsport,  after  the 
Taylor  family,  its  earliest  settlers.  In  1870  David  Gage  of  Chicago, 
named  it  Lakeside,  because  of  its  proximity  to  the  Lake.  It  is  only 
recently,  however,  since  it  has  been  designated  Hubbard  Woods, 
that  this  charming  tract  of  land  has  received  the  attention  it  deserved. 
It  is  named  after  Gurdon  S.  Hubbard,  who  at  one  time,  owned  the 
whole  acreage  comprising  this  site.  As  the  Sheridan  Road  takes  its 
way  in  close  proximity  to  the  Lake,  the  slopes  and  curves  present  a 
panorama  of  wonderful  views.  There  are  some  charming  homes  in 
this  picturesque  environment,  and  in  the  woodlands  west  of  the  rail 
road,  a  very  unique  home  has  just  been  completed.  It  is  built  of 
logs,  but  nothing  about  it  to  suggest  the  home  of  the  early  pioneer. 
It  is  a  pretentious  affair,  and  was  built  and  is  owned  by  Adam  Emory 
Albright,  who  has  become  known  as  the  painter  of  country  children. 
This  country  home  is  constructed  of  Oregon  pine  logs,  sixty  feet  long 
and  ranging  in  diameter  from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches.  This  unique 


Page  hundred  and  thirty-seven 


I'hoto  by  Be: 


TRAIL  TREE  AT  WILMETTE,  ILL. 
Tenth  and  Greenwood  Avenues 


Page  hundred  and  thirty-eight 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 


structure  together  with  the  artist's  reputation,  will  surely  bring  fame 
to  Hubbard  Woods.  It  will  be  interesting  to  read  the  legends  of 
the  future  in  connection  with  the  building  of  this  home.  How  the 
logs  were  hauled  on  a  train  of  six  flat  cars  to  be  again  transported 
by  two  teams  of  horses,  two  logs  at  a  time,  to  the  proposed  site ;  the 
many  problems  encountered  in  obtaining  workmen  who  could  put 
the  material  together,  for  every  log,  as  well  as  the  oak  window  frames, 
is  held  in  place  by  spikes  half  an  inch  square  and  ten  inches  long! 

Winnetka  is  an  Indian  word,  signifying  "beautiful  place,"  and 
no  one  will  dispute  its  right  to  the  title.  Here  may  be  found  many 
pretentious  as  well  as  artistic  homes,  charmingly  environed  in  trees 
and  shrubbery.  It  has  winding  thoroughfares,  with  little  parks  at 
street  intersections.  Its  natural  undulations  are  very  pleasing,  and 
its  outlook  to  the  Lake  delightful.  The  maple  growth  is  simply 
glorious,  and  in  Autumn  Winnetka 's  coloring  rivals  that  of  any  other 
North  Shore  village  or  city.  The  Sheridan  Road  takes  its  way 
through  the  village  one  block  west  of  the  Lake. 

Kenilworth,  within  the  past  year,  has  shown  considerable  awaken- 
ing in  the  northern  portion.  Here  quite  a  number  of  homes  have 
come  into  being,  and  streets  laid  out  and  paved  in  keeping  with  the 
original  plan  of  the  site.  From  the  "  Book  of  the  North  Shore, — 
1910,"  is  culled  the  following  paragraph  of  interest  regarding  this 
particular  vicinity : 

"About  fifteen  miles  north  of  Chicago  is  Kenilworth,  which  has 
a  marked  individuality.  Here  was  opportunity  for  landscape  artist 
and  architect  to  work  in  unison,  and  here,  too,  it  being  the  youngest 
of  the  North  Shore  settlements,  each  could  profit  by  the  advantages 
or  disadvantages  of  the  planning  and  building  of  the  earlier  com- 
munities; and  to  their  credit,  be  it  recorded,  Kenilworth  stands  alone 
in  having  made  the  best  of  all  that  Nature  bestowed.  Even  Evanston, 
as  well  as  Highland  Park  and  Rogers  Park,  have  had  to  destroy  in 
modern  times  that  which  was  planned  and  builded  in  earlier  times. 
Not  so  will  it  be  with  Kenilworth.  The  entrance  to  this  lovely  home 
town  is  beyond  reproach;  its  large  fountain  and  cemented  angles  of 
streets,  together  with  its  superb  tree  growth,  suggest  a  park  of  some 
magnitude  and  beauty.  No  straggling  line  of  one-story  stores,  no 
freaks  of  the  builder  of  the  "railroad"  street  offend  the  eye.  The 
noble  forest  growth  of  oak,  elm,  ash  and  other  native  trees  have  been 
barely  cleared  to  admit  of  residences  being  built,  yet  all  is  in  order 
and  arranged  with  artistic  taste.  The  large  trees  are  trimmed  so  as 
not  to  interfere,  their  tops  forming  a  canopy  of  varied  green  in 
summer,  while  in  winter  they  are  etched  against  the  sky  line  or  cast- 
ing athwart  the  snow-covered  lawns  blue  and  purple  traceries,  such 
as  no  artist  could  hope  to  imitate  with  any  degree  of  success.  Noth- 
ing had  stood  in  this  wilderness  of  forest  previous  to  its  being  platted 
as  a  desirable  residence  site,  except  the  wigwam  of  the  Indian  and 
a  solitary  log  cabin,  which  stood  on  the  bluff,  thirty-five  feet  above 
the  lake,  and  in  which  Elizabeth  Ouilmette  was  married  to  Michael 
Welch.  Well  paved  avenues,  over  which  much  of  the  original  forest 
growth  throws  its  grateful  shade  and  protection,  make  of  Kenilworth 
a  desirable  home  place." 


Page  hundred  and  thirty-nine 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


Wilmette  is  a  live,  active  village.  During  the  past  five  years  it 
has  grown  beyond  comprehension ;  grown  in  beauty  as  well  as  in 
strength.  It  was  always  a  favored  site.  Nature  did  much  for  it, 
and  interest  is  shown  in  the  preservation  of  its  tree  growth.  There 
are  many  lordly  elms,  trees  that  prove  by  their  girth  that  they  were 
here  while  the  Indian  was  in  possession.  There  are  a  few  trail  trees 
cherished  in  this  neighborhood,  and  whether  on  private  property  or 
on  the  boulevards,  they  are  sacred  to  their  particular  environment. 
The  Ouilmette  Country  Club,  located  on  the  edge  of  the  public  park 
fronting  the  Lake,  forms  one  of  the  many  social  features  associated 
with  this  village.  The  enterprise  of  the  Woman's  Club  is  evidenced 
in  the  beautiful  club  home  erected  by  that  organization,  and  which 
is  said  to  be  the  first  club  house  of  its  kind  devoted  to  the  special 
interests  of  a  woman's  organization  built  on  the  North  Shore.  Its 
Village  Hall  is  a  monument  to  its  originators.  Pure  and  chaste  in 
design  and  finish  it  is  unlike  any  other  structure  of  its  kind  on  the 
North  Shore,  and  its  ensemble  is  such,  that  one  feels  as  if  one  of 
the  temples  of  ancient  Greece  had  been  dropped  into  a  more  modern 
environment  and  fitted  to  its  alien  surroundings  with  advantage. 
Wilmette  has  much  of  traditional  interest.  It  was  named  after  the 
wife  of  Antoine  Ouilmette,  a  Frenchman,  who  married  Archange,  a 
Pottawattomie  maiden.  Ouilmette  was  one  of  the  first  white  settlers 
in  Chicago  occupying  one  of  the  four  cabins  that  constituted  the 
settlement  of  Chicago  in  1803.  There  were  born  to  the  Ouilmettes 
eight  children,  the  names  of  whom  appear  in  the  several  affidavits, 
deeds  and  documents  relating  to  the  title  to  the  reservation,  upon 
the  site  of  which  the  greater  portion  of  Wilmette,  as  well  as  a  part 
of  Evanston,  now  stands.  Ouilmette's  marriage  to  Archange,  the 
Pottawattomie,  is  historical,  for  it  is  said  to  be  the  first  North  Shore 
wedding  of  which  there  is  any  record.  The  wedding  took  place  at 
Gross  Point  in  1796.  Ouilmette's  daughter,  Elizabeth,  was  twice 
married.  Her  first  husband  was  Michael  Welch,  who  has  the  honor 
of  being  designated  not  only  the  "first  Irishman"  in  Chicago,  but 
the  first  of  his  nationality  on  the  North  Shore.  His  marriage  with 
Elizabeth  Ouilmette  took  place  on  May  n,  1830,  and  in  a  log  cabin 
that  stood  until  1903  on  the  east  side  of  Sheridan  Road,  two  blocks 
north  of  the  Kenilworth  water  tower. 

The  North  Shore  channel  of  the  Chicago  Sanitary  District  has 
its  entrance  from  Lake  Michigan  in  Wilmette,  where  a  harbor  has 
been  built  and  where  the  commissioners  have  created  from  the 
material  taken  from  the  ditch  a  site  for  a  park  on  its  north  bank. 
At  this  point  the  Sheridan  road  will  cross  the  channel  over  a  hand- 
some concrete  bridge,  which  is  nearing  completion.  The  water  flows 
into  the  canal  at  the  rate  of  one  thousand  cubic  feet  per  second, 
which  is  of  sufficient  force  to  dilute  all  sewage  that  may  be  turned 
into  it.  Great  possibilities  for  beautifying  its  banks  through  the 
suburban  residence  sections  is  evident,  and  will,  in  all  probability, 
be  considered  seriously  in  some  well  organized  association,  such  as 
our  Park  Boards.  The  right  of  way  of  the  channel  is  six  hundred 
feet  in  width;  the  canal  is  from  twenty-six  to  thirty  feet  in  width 
at  bottom,  with  a  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  width  at  top,  and 
thirteen  feet  of  depth,  and  the  approximate  cost  is  $2,500,000. 

Page  hundred  and  forty 


HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

Reaching  Rogers  Park  the  northern  limits  of  Chicago  are  des- 
ignated by  the  site  of  an  old  Indian  trail.  This  thoroughfare  was 
for  years  known  as  "  Indian  Boundary."  Its  title  should  never  have 
been  changed  and  the  writer  is  glad  to  know  that  the  Chicago  His- 
torical Society  has  entered  a  protest  to  this  effect  on  its  records. 
"Indian  Boundary"  would  always  imply  tradition;  would  signify 
that  which  as  time  passes  one  is  apt  to  forget.  The  northern  section 
of  Rogers  Park  is  designated  "Birchwood."  The  whole  suburb 
might  rightfully  have  claimed  this  designation,  so  prolific  were  the 
birch  trees  here. 

The  Edgewater  Golf  Club,  which  for  years  made  a  beauty  spot 
of  the  southwest  corner  of  Rogers  Park,  has  its  new  grounds  at  the 
intersection  of  Pratt  and  Ridge  Boulevards — the  latter  being  laid 
over  an  old  trail.  The  Birchwood  Golf  Club  has  its  links  adjoining 
the  historic  Indian  Boundary. 

Quoting  again  from  the  "Book  of  the  North  Shore  1910." 

"Before  streets  were  opened  the  byways  leading  to  the  Lake,  par- 
ticularly east  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  tracks — Sheridan 
Road  then  being  little  more  than  a  trail — the  woodlands  were  rich 
in  flower  growth.  The  hepatica,  the  violet  and  a  host  of  other  sweet 
blossoms,  together  with  a  veritable  riot  of  roses,  made  the  months 
of  May  and  June  a  delight  in  this  particular  section.  The  cucumber 
vine,  with  its  delicate  lace-like  beauty,  vied  with  woodbine,  wild 
grape  and  bittersweet  in  gracefully  draping  each  defect  of  shattered 
and  fallen  treegrowth.  These  same  charming  artists  of  the  forest 
persisted  in  veiling  the  real  estate  signs,  as  if  in  protest  at  their 
intrusion.  The  stately  elder  with  its  broad  umbels  of  cream-colored 
and  white  blossoms,  followed  by  the  rich  purple  and  red  fruit,  imparted 
to  the  byways  an  ever-varying  touch  of  form  and  hue.  The  great 
charm  of  the  Rogers  Park  woodlands,  however,  was  its  silver  birch 
growth,  the  "lady  birch"  as  it  is  designated  by  some  authorities. 
Tenderest  touches  of  green  splashed  with  yellow  in  the  spring;  their 
columns  of  silver  imparting  a  striking  note  of  beauty  in  the  dense 
and  shadowy  byways  of  summer ;  while  autumn  changed  their  delicate 
foliage  to  veritable  flakes  of  gold,  and  my  Lady  Birch  then  declared 
herself  Queen  of  the  Woodlands !  In  the  winter  they  assumed  a  rare 
individuality,  standing  like  pillars  of  light  in  purpled  shadows,  and 
outvieing  the  snow-blanketed  earth  in  their  brilliancy.  Oh!  how 
radiant  they  appeared  when  caught  in  the  slanting  rays  of  a  rose- 
colored  sunset !  And  when  Old  Sol  arose  from  his  bed  on  the  eastern 
horizon  of  the  Lake,  how  tenderly  mysterious  they  became,  quivering 
with  something  akin  to  the  emotion  of  a  messenger  who  has  some- 
thing surprising  to  impart.  You  dear  old  birch  trees!  Why  was 
speech  denied  you?  Our  distinguished  New  England  poet  immor- 
talized thee — 

"Give  me  of  your  bark, 
O  Birch-Tree!" 

"Lay  aside  your  cloak,  O  birch-tree! 
Lay  aside  your  white-skin  wrapper, 
For  the  summer-time  is  coming, 
And  the  sun  is  warm  in  heaven, 
And  you  need  no  white-skin  wrapper!" 
Thus  aloud  cried  Hiawatha. 

Page  hundred  and  forty-one 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


"There  were  many 
'Hiawathas,'  before  the 
coming  of  the  white  man, 
in  the  birchwoods  on  the 
site  of  what  is  now  called 
Rogers  Park,  busy  build- 
ing canoes  from  the  mate- 
rial at  hand.  In  a  few 
instances  the  birch  tree 
has  been  coaxed  to  remain 
well  cared  for  on  private 
property. 

"The  two  Edgewaters 
and  Argyle  Park  as  Rogers 
Park,  form  a  part  of  the 
municipality  of  Chicago. 
Edgewater's  founder  was 
Mr.  J.  Lewis  Cochran. 
He  subdivided  three 
hundred  and  fifty  acres, 
putting  in  street  im- 
provements and  building 
some  three  hundred 
houses.  It  required  not 
only  a  large  amount  of 
capital,  but  unbounded 
faith  in  the  future.  The 
only  transportation  was 
the  Evanston  branch  of 
the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
&  St.  Paul  Railroad,  with 
terminus  at  the  Union 
Depot.  In  1893,  the  elec- 
tric surface  road  was 
opened.  Many  of  us  re- 
call the  delight  with  which 
we  hailed  this  buzzing  innovator,  whose  bumblebeeish  vibrations 
were  as  music  to  the  ears  of  the  long-suffering  '  better  transportation' 
advocate.  Then  the  'trolley-parties'  with  which  the  road  favored 
its  patrons !  We  recall  how  the  single  track,  interspersed  here  and 
there  with  convenient  sidings,  pushed  through  byways,  tangled  and 
overgrown  with  brushwood  and  trees.  In  the  open  car,  on  a  summer 
evening,  this  ride  was  particularly  enjoyable,  for  trees  and  bushes 
reaching  out  on  either  side  swished  against  the  invader  in  musical 
protest,  while  the  air  was  fragrant  with  woodsy  sweets,  and  between 
whiles,  the  Lake  might  be  seen  under  the  silvered  sheen  of  moonlight. 
Now  the  North  Western  Elevated  carries  a  host  of  patrons  over  the 
original  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  tracks. 

"While  on  this  subject  of  transportation,  a  word  for  the  enterprise 
of  Chicago's  first  railroad  (1848),  now  generally  designated  as  the 
Chicago  &  North  Western.  It  has  passed  through  so  many  vicissi- 


SILVER  BIRCHES 


Page  hundred  and  forty-two 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

tudes  that  its  evolution  into  the  road  of  today  reads  like  romance. 
Witness  now  its  finely  equipped  Milwaukee  Division,  for  this  has 
been  a  power  in  the  development  of  the  North  Shore  suburbs  and 
towns.  Its  fine  embankments  and  subways,  its  artistic  stations  in 
an  environment  of  parkway  and  gardens,  have  all  helped  toward 
evolution  from  the  country  village,  with  its  primitive  methods,  to 
the  fair  and  progressive  suburbs  of  the  city  and  the  prosperous  towns 
and  cities  beyond." 

Future  traditions  of  Edgewater  will  ever  be  associated  with  the 
fact  that  here,  in  "Paradise  Flat,"  lived  and  wrote  and  died,  the 
talented  authoress  and  deeply  lamented  Myrtle  Reed. 

Evanston  is  a  beautiful  city,  ideal  in  its  preservation  of  the  forest 
trees  and  in  its  system  of  well-paved  and  neatly  kept  thoroughfares. 
The  stranger  is  impressed  with  the  fact  that  each  individual  Evan- 
stonian  takes  a  personal  pride  in  the  neat  appearance  of  his  city. 
There  are  many  beautiful  homes,  many  dear,  old-fashioned  structures, 
as  well  as  those  of  more  modern  design  and  imposing  appearance; 
but  all  in  an  environment  of  emerald  lawn,  graceful  shrub,  clinging 
vine  and  stately  trees.  The  immediate  Lake  front  has  been  preserved 
for  park  purposes,  considerable  land  having  been  redeemed  from  the 
Lake  itself;  the  famous  Sheridan  Road,  as  a  rule,  forming  the  western 
boundary  of  this  most  perfect  system  of  devoting  a  choice  stretch 
of  land  to  the  public  good.  This  highway,  which  extends  for  thirty 
miles  northward  from  Chicago — it  being  a  part  of  the  latter's  boule- 
vard system — was  conceived  by  an  Evanstonian,  the  late  Volney  W. 
Foster.  Evanston's  beginnings  center  in  the  history  of  its  University, 
five  hundred  and  sixty  acres  being  purchased  by  the  trustees  in  1854, 
for  the  purpose  of  developing  this  higher  class  education,  and  the 
growth  of  the  university  is,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  development  of 
the  city  itself.  Founded  in  love  and  in  sincerity,  is  it  wonder  that 
Evanston  should  later  become  known  as  the  "classic"  city  of  the 
West?  It  received  its  name  in  honor  of  Dr.  John  Evans,  who  took 
a  very  active  part  in  securing  the  site  for  the  University.  Ten 
students  in  a  frame  building  in  1855!  Over  four  thousand  in  hand- 
some brick  and  stone  edifices  in  1911! 

The  highways  and  byways  of  the  past  in  Evanston  are  of  unusual 
interest,  and  its  Historical  Society  has  been  active  in  perpetuating 
memories  of  the  native  people  that  roamed  at  will  through  its  superb 
forest  environment,  hunting  the  deer  or  other  animals  then  familiar 
to  its  vicinity.  Besides  the  ever-present  trail,  the  natural  highway 
of  the  Indian,  has,  as  in  other  places  along  the  North  Shore,  been 
appropriated  by  the  white  man,  and  converted  into  well-paved 
streets  and  boulevards,  along  which  the  automobile  has  taken  right 
of  way;  while  Indian  mounds  and  graves  have  been  found  in  many 
localities  within  the  boundary  of  the  city.  Within  two  miles  of  its 
limits,  Father  Pinet,  in  1696,  had  his  "Mission  of  the  Guardian 
Angel"  among  the  Miami  Indians,  and  here,  in  1699,  he  was  visited 
by  Saint  Cosme  and  others,  with  Henry  de  Tonty  as  guide  and  pro- 
tector, while  on  their  way  to  the  Illinois  country,  via  the  Chicago 
portage. 


Page  hundred  and  forty-three 


Page  hundred  and  forty-four 


THE  LAKE  SHORE  COUNTRY  CLUB 
Glencoe,  111. 


THE  FAVORITE  PASTIME  ON  THE 
NORTH  SHORE 

"The  Royal  and  Ancient  Game  of  Goff" 

GOLF,  or  "goff,"  as  it  was  designated  in  ancient  Scotland,  was 
a  pastime  of  record  not  only  in  Scotland  but  in  England,  long 
before  Columbus  discovered  America.     Twelve  years  previous 
to  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  a  golf  club  had  been  established  at 
Blackheath,    London,   a   site   teeming  with   historic   interest   in   the 
traditions  of  Great  Britain. 

Ten  years  before  Marquette  passed  in  view  of  our  North  Shore,  the 
most  famous  of  all  golf  clubs,  that  of  St.  Andrews,  was  established 
in  Scotland — for  it  is  practically  of  Scotch  origin — it  is  known  as  a 
fascinating  sport,  so  much  so,  that  in  1457  a  note  of  alarm  was  sounded 
because  of  the  fear  that  "the  most  important  pursuit  of  archery" 
would  be  neglected  on  its  account.  And  soon  a  Scottish  Act  of 
Parliament  decreed  that  "futeball  and  golfe  be  utterly  cryit  down 
and  nocht  usit." 

No  particular  attention  seems  to  have  been  given  to  this  decree, 
however,  and  a  stronger  one  was  issued  in  which  "futeball  and  golfe" 
are  "forbidden."  This  edict  was  signed  by  James  the  Fourth,  but 
it  was  not  long  before  this  monarch  became  so  infatuated  with  the 


Page  hundred  and  jorty-five 


Page  hundred  and  forty-six 


HIGHWAYS       AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST       AND       PRESENT 


•.."! 


Photo  by  llenini 

"THE  ELM" 

GLEN  VIEW  CLUB  HOUSE 
Golf,  III. 

game  that  he  set  his  own  command  at  defiance  and  "joyneth"  in 
the  "unprofitable  sport."  This  monarch  comes  down  to  tradition 
associated  with  golf  as  the  first  royal  personage  formally  figuring 
in  the  game. 

James  the  Fifth  and  his  daughter,  the  unhappy  Mary  Stuart, 
also  played  golf.  The  latter  was  charged  by  her  enemies  in  show- 
ing a  "shameless  indifference"  to  the  fate  of  her  husband,  when  a 
few  days  after  his  tragical  end,  she  was  seen  "golfing."  Charles  the 
First  and  his  brother,  Prince  Henry,  were  devotees  of  the  game. 
This  unfortunate  monarch,  while  in  the  hands  of  the  Scots  at  New- 
Page  hundred  and  forty-seven 


"REDCROFT" 

HOME  OF  MR.  FREDERIC  W.  UPHAM 
Golf,  111. 


"REDCROFT" 

HOME  OF  MR.  FREDERIC  W.  UPHAM 
Golf,  111. 


Page  hundred  and  forty-eight 


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Pagg  hundred  and  forty-nine 


GLEN  VIEW  CLUB 
"Apartment  B" 


GLEN  VIEW  CLUB 
"The  Elm"  and  "Apartment  C' 


Page  hundred  and  fifty 


HIGHWAYS      AND       BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND      PRESENT 

castle  and  awaiting  their  surrender  of  his  person  to  the  English 
Parliament,  found  much  diversion  in  this  ancient  game.  The  golf 
ball  at  this  period  was  a  circlet  of  leather,  roughly  stitched  together 
in  sections,  and  containing  a  stuffing  of  feathers  packed  so  tightly 
as  to  render  it  as  hard  as  a  stone.  It  was  twice  the  size  of  the  present 
ball  and  much  less  durable. 

India,  Australia,  New  Zealand,  Canada  and  the  United  States, 
in  fact,  everywhere  that  Scots  congregate,  cometh  the  sport  that 
imparts  health  and  vigor,  and  which  affords  splendid  relaxation 
after  sedentary  habits  connected  with  business.  The  fact  that 
women  are  taking  an  active  part  in  the  game  predicts  much  for  the 
future,  as  this  outdoor  sport  involves  a  covering  of  distances  on  foot, 
an  exercise  which  the  women,  as  a  rule,  eschew. 

It  is  little  wonder  that  the  North  Shore,  with  its  reaches  of  undulat- 
ing country,  should  have  proven  a  golfer's  paradise.  Whether  Scots 
were  the  originators  of  the  sport  in  this  particular  vicinity,  the  writer 
is  not  prepared  to  state,  but  the  golf  links  are  here  and  in  an  environ- 
ment that  even  bonnie  Scotland  itself  cannot  outdo. 

Lake  Forest  has  its  Onwentsia,  Highland  Park  its  Exmoor  golf 
links,  both  on  sites  that  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  While  the  Lake 
Shore  Country  Club  and  the  Skokie  Club  of  Glencoe  are  on  sites 
designated  by  their  individual  titles,  each  in  its  own  particular  environ- 
ment of  scenic  charm.  The  Evanston  Golf  Club  has  its  links  adjacent 
to  the  drainage  canal.  The  Glen  View  Club  is  a  few  miles  west  of 
Evanston  and  on  a  very  historic  site.  The  North  Branch  of  the 
Chicago  River  passes  through  the  links,  and  is  suggestive  of  "trouble." 
In  the  grounds  and  overlooking  the  links  are  two  structures  of  Eliza- 
bethan style  of  architecture.  These  are  designated  "  Apartments 
B  and  C,"  and  are  rented  by  members  wishing  to  sojourn  here  with 
their  families.  Apartment  A  was  originally  a  brick  farm  house. 

Here  to  the  wilderness  in  1836  came  Robert  Dewes.  His  family, 
French  Huguenots,  had  held  farmlands  in  Yorkshire,  England,  for 
three  hundred  years.  Descendants  are  still  there.  In  the  brick 
house  on  the  golf  grounds  was  born  the  son  of  the  pioneer  farmer 
in  1846.  John  Dewes  sold  the  property  to  the  Glen  View  Club. 
Mr.  Dewes  now  lives  in  a  brick  home  on  a  rising  slope  just  west  of 
the  links,  and  with  acreage  enough  to  keep  him  occupied.  For,  as 
he  says,  he  is  a  "born  farmer"  and  therefore  feels  the  need  of  living 
in  close  acquaintance  with  the  soil.  Another  member  of  the  family, 
an  uncle  of  the  present  representative,  also  came  to  Chicago  in  the 
early  thirties,  and  was  offered  a  tract  of  eighty  acres  for  one  dollar 
and  a  quarter  per  acre,  on  what  is  now  Lake  Street  west  of  the  river. 
There  is  a  little  log  cabin,  built  in  1836,  for  an  Englishman  by  the 
name  of  Swales,  who  was  associated  with  Mr.  Dewes'  father. 

The  Glen  View  golf  grounds  occupy  the  site  of  the  farm  that 
followed  Indian  occupation  of  the  land.  It  is  a  site  of  intense 
interest,  traditionally,  for  here  was  a  very  important  Indian  village, 
and  the  earth  has  yielded  relics  of  a  past  with  which  the  average 
man  is  totally  unfamiliar.  The  balconies  of  the  club  house  afford 
vistas  of  this  undulating  country,  and  here  is  inspiration  for  both 
poet  and  artist. 


Page  hundred  and  fifty-one 


GLEN  VIEW  LINKS 
"Sweet  Home"  and  the  "Ball  Bearing  Stream" 


LOG  CABIN 
Glen  View  Club 


Page  hundred  and  fifty-two 


THE  SKOKIE  COUNTRY  CLUB 
i.     The  Entrance.          2.     The  Club  House.         3.     The  Summer  House. 


Page  hundred  and  -fifty-three 


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hundred  and  fifty-four 


-m 


MICHAEL  SWEENEY  LOG  CABIN 
Fort  Sheridan,  111. 


PASSING  VISTAS 

It  is  necessary  to  look  forward  as  well  as  backward. 

Madame  de  Stael 

ROCKLAND  was  the  name  of  a  little  station  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Railway,  and  somewhat  north 
of  the  present  Lake  Bluff  station.  After  twenty  years  of  service 
it  merged  its  identity  into  that  of  Lake  Bluff,  which  in  1877,  had 
become  a  Methodist  camp  meeting  ground.  The  position  on  the  bluff 
and  its  proximity  to  the  Lake  became  sponsor  for  the  newer  name. 
Later,  Lake  Bluff  became  the  western  Chautauqua  center  and  large 
crowds  gathered  on  this  picturesque  site  each  season.  Its  great  audi- 
torium stood  in  an  environment  of  forest  and  from  its  platform  were 
heard  many  of  the  leading  orators  of  the  day.  It  suffered  a  period 
of  depression  and  financial  hindrance,  and  in  1895,  the  "Lake  Bluff 
Camp  Meeting  Association"  surrendered  control  of  the  property, 
which  then  became  incorporated  as  a  village.  Many  improvements 
have  been  made  in  an  up-to-date  spirit,  and  Lake  Bluff,  with  its 
charming  location,  promises  much  in  its  future  evolution  toward 
home-building. 


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BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


About  six  miles  south  of  Lake  Bluff  is  Fort  Sheridan,  said  to  be 
the  model  military  station  of  the  United  States.  Its  inception  came 
in  1887,  when  an  association  comprised  of  Chicago's  prominent  busi- 
ness men,  realized  the  time  had  arrived  when  urgent  need  demanded 
that  a  military  post  of  some  importance  be  established  within  con- 
venient distance  of  the  city.  To  this  end,  funds  were  raised  to  pur- 
chase a  tract  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  located  between  the 
railroad  and  the  Lake.  This  tract  was  donated  to  the  Government, 
and  by  Act  of  Congress  it  was  named  in  honor  of  the  hero,  General 
Philip  H.  Sheridan.  It  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  sites  and  its 
original  beauty  of  contour  has  been  faithfully  preserved.  Additional 
acres  have  been  added  until  the  reservation  embraces  about  one 
thousand.  Its  architectural  features  are  excellent,  and  an  appropria- 
tion is  being  sought  for  further  improvements.  These  will  add  materi- 
ally to  its  present  facilities  for  accommodation  of  numbers,  and  it 
will  make  Fort  Sheridan  the  best  equipped  military  post  in  the  world. 
The  famous  Sheridan  Road  takes  its  way  through  the  reservation 
over  finely  bridged  ravines. 

This  tract  of  land  has  its  traditions.  On  the  site  now  occupied 
by  the  Post  Cemetery,  the  woodman's  ax  awakened  the  echoes  in 
1840,  and  soon  the  pioneer  structure  of  logs  was  seen  in  a  small 
clearing,  and  Benjamin  Marks  possessed  a  home  in  the  North  Shore 
wilderness.  Four  years  later  Michael  Sweeney  came  into  the  dense 
timber  growth  between  the  Lake  and  the  old  trail  or  military  road. 
Now  another  little  brown  structure  came  into  existence.  This 
memento  of  early  pioneer  days,  is  still  seen  just  southwest  of  the 
handsome  station  of  the  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Railway  at  Fort 
Sheridan.  In  the  early  fifties  the  railroad  cut  this  acreage  in  two. 
Mr.  Sweeney,  who  had  purchased  his  acres  from  the  government, 
arrived  in  an  ox  wagon  in  the  late  summer  of  1844.  He  died  in 
September,  1909,  but  is  survived  by  his  widow  and  eight  children, 
two  of  the  latter,  Mr.  William  and  Miss  Frances,  occupy,  with  their 
mother,  the  spacious  brick  home,  near  the  site  of  the  former  log  cabin, 
to  which  the  latter  had  come  as  a  bride.  This  modern  home  is  on 
a  gentle  elevation  and  in  a  delightful  environment  of  lawn  and 
woodland.  One  is  impressed  with  the  care  evidenced  in  the  preser- 
vation of  the  natural  tree  growth  and  the  pioneer  orchard — the  first 
apple  tree  being  still  tenderly  nurtured  in  remembrance  of  the  hand 
that  planted  and  fostered  it. 

Highwood  was  projected  in  1871,  and  the  writer  recalls  the  days 
of  its  pretty  suburban  existence.  Mrs.  Holden  (the  "Amber"  of 
blessed  memory)  dwelt  here,  writing  those  delightful  little  heart 
touches  under  the  title  of  "Amber  Beads,"  as  well  as  other  essays 
of  equal  interest.  Highwood  seemed  to  lose  its  identity  after  Fort 
Sheridan  was  established.  But  efforts  are  being  made  toward  its 
rehabilitation.  The  lay  of  the  land  is  delightful  and  the  deserted 
village  aspect  should  at  once  be  corrected,  by  a  well-organized  effort 
toward  home-building,  and  its  evolution  into  one  of  the  beauty  spots 
of  the  North  Shore,  for  Highwood  has  undiscovered  possibilities. 


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RAVINE   AT  "THE  MORAINE" 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY 

"Many  of  the  most  valuable  discoveries  have  been  the  work  of  chance." 

Cotton. 

IS  it  not  true  that  the  particular  designation  of  a  site  serves  either 
to  attract  or  repel?  While  on  an  electric  car  headed  northward, 

and  just  beyond  the  immaculate  and  famous  "Crab  Tree  Farm," 
there  flashed  across  the  vision  the  word  "Lakewoods!"  It  was  a 
title  on  a  signboard,  the  latter  having  no  objectionable  feature  in 
its  composition,  but  impressing  one  with  the  conviction  that  refine- 
ment of  taste  originated  its  design. 

"Lakewoods!"  It  suggested  to  the  imagination  something  more 
tender  than  "forest"  growth.  "Woods!"  We  may  be  lost  in  the 
forest;  we  may  roam  without  fear  through  the  woods.  With  these 
thoughts  uppermost,  the  conductor  is  instructed  to  stop  at  the  "very 
next  station."  By  me  troth!  The  same  is  familiar,  for  it  was  noth- 
ing more  nor  less  than  Downey's  Crossing  at  the  southwest  corner  of 
the  beautiful  parade  grounds  of  the  Great  Lakes  Naval  Training 
Station,  the  Sheridan  Road  forming  the  dividing  line. 

This  famous  driveway  offered  a  good  footpath  southward.  The 
stout  fencing  of  wire  forbade  intrusion  upon  this  lovely  domain  with 


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I!    I  (1    II    \V   A    V   S       A    N    I)       li    Y    \V  A   Y   S  —  P  A  S  T       A   N    U       P   R  E  S   E   N   T 

its  waving  undulations  and  belts  of  timber  that  called  forth  exclama- 
tions of  delight,  as  well  as  an  irresistable  desire  for  exploration  of  its 
hidden  recesses.  Presently,  after  a  delightful  tramp  of  about  half  a 
mile  a  gate  is  discovered,  and  oh,  joy!  it  stands  at  an  inviting  "ajar" 
angle — just  room  to  squeeze  through! 

Through?  Yes,  and  following  an  old  wagon  trail  the  explorers — 
for  there  are  two  (He  and  She) — find  themselves  trending  eastward 
through  a  valley  of  perfect  delight.  It  is  one  of  those  wonderful 
ravine  formations,  without  any  perceptible  descent  into  it  and  with 
the  contour  of  its  sides  broken  into  slopes  that  appear  to  trend  off 
into  lost  distances.  Each  and  every  slope  has  its  peculiar  charm  of 
woodland,  and  just  now,  Autumn  had  touched  the  foliage  with  an 
indescribable  charm.  See  the  maples  yonder!  How  they  revel  in 
their  glory  of  gold!  And  what  an  inspiration  they  are  in  their  uplift 
of  gladsomeness !  And  the  number  of  them!  Here,  enthroned  by  a 
group  of  courtly  satellites  all  garbed  in  liveries  of  splendor,  is  a  queen 
of  the  woods.  See  how  the  flakes  of  gold  float,  as  'twere,  between 
earth  and  heaven.  Later,  they  will  become  the  sport  of  the  winds. 

The  atmosphere  is  charged  with  woodsy  sweets,  such  as  only 
Autumn  distils.  It  is  reminiscent  of  an  old  cedar  chest  in  which 
dried  rose  leaves  and  lavender,  sweet  marjory  and  thyme  all  com- 
bine, with  no  particular  essence  predominating.  Hark!  'Tis  the 
whisper  of  waters.  Only  a  brooklet,  clear  and  deep,  but  quickly 
pursuing  its  onward  way  between  a  growth  that  helps  to  conceal 
its  course.  It  is  not,  as  tradition  asserts  of  its  kind,  a  "babbling 
brook."  Like  the  Indian,  it  learned  to  be  stealthy.  So  it  just 
whispers,  low  yet  musically,  fearing  that  some  scientific  explorer 
may  happen  along  and  propose  to  harness  it  for  a  purpose.  Poor 
little  brook!  How  nervously  you  swish  beneath  the  primitive  bridge 
of  logs  and  rude  planks! 

She: — "This  byway,  in  the  long  ago,  was  an  Indian  trail." 

He: — "Quite  possible.  Let's  hunt  for  spear-heads,  arrow-heads 
and  the  like."  She  shakes  her  head  as  an  intimation  that  she  realizes 
the  little  vein  of  irony  in  his  proposition,  and  continues  the  tramp 
onward. 

"There!  There  it  is!"  And  there  was  an  "  I-told-you-so!" 
implied  by  the  tone  of  voice.  But,  presently,  both  He  and  She, 
delighted  and  proud,  are  chuckling  before  this  magnificent  old  trail 
tree.  Close  at  hand  there  is  water,  a  spring  to  all  appearance.  It 
is  probably  the  source  of  the  low-purling  brook  which  has  been 
crossed  and  re-crossed  on  their  trend  eastward. 

There  is  now  a  gentle  slope  upward,  but  the  explorers,  like  their 
predecessors  of  old,  thinking  they  are  heading  in  a  particular  direc- 
tion, discover  a  surprise,  but  not  the  one  they  had  set  out  to  find. 
The  ravine,  or  "  Valley  Road,"  as  they  designated  it  on  their  "  charts," 
did  not  have  its  terminal  at  the  Lake  shore.  It  has  surreptitiously 
vanished  beneath  their  feet  and  they  find  themselves  on  a  plateau 
of  untold  possibilities  in  its  suggestion  for  a  country  seat.  To  tell 
the  truth,  our  explorers  had  expected  to  find  something  of  the  kind 
already  here,  as  the  highway  by  which  they  had  come  was  a  well- 
defined  wagon  road,  not  having  been  used  perhaps  for  some  twenty 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

years.  But  the  problem  of  the  road  is  solved.  Observation  of  the 
beautiful  "Lakewoods"  site  imparts  this  solution: 

That  here,  the  Indian  had  a  paradise  along  the  North  Shore;  trails 
ran  in  and  out  like  a  network.  After  the  Indian,  one  leading  trail 
was  used  by  the  hunter  and  then  covered  by  a  wagon  road,  and 
much  later,  it  received  a  covering  of  slag,  and  primitive  bridges  were 
built  across  the  brook.  For  what  purpose?  That  wood  for  fuel 
might  be  conveyed  to  the  railroad.  The  trees  tell  the  story.  Many 
old  monarchs  have  been  slain.  Some  few  remain.  While  the  second 
growth  is  now  attaining  its  glory.  The  woods  are,  for  this  reason, 
beautiful  and  promising  in  their  rich  variety.  Groups  of  hemlock 
growth  are  here,  as  well  as  the  richest  development  of  hickory  trees 
found  in  so  close  a  proximity  to  the  Lake  along  the  North  Shore. 
One  old  trail  tree  lay  prone.  It  must  have  been  a  marvel  when 
standing.  Seated  on  its  trunk,  the  crooked  part  forming  a  support 
to  the  back,  the  explorers  became  familiar  with  the  feathered  tribe 
haunting  these  particular  woods.  Allowing  that  many  had  migrated 
southward,  there  remained  variety  enough  to  afford  pleasurable 
entertainment. 

The  bluff  itself  is  finely  sculptured,  and  has  wooded  inlets  from 
the  beach  that  suggest  great  possibilities  to  the  landscape  architect. 
One  of  these  in  particular,  has  a  well-defined  trail,  descending  from 
the  plateau,  and  continuing  at  a  very  gentle  slope  to  the  beach. 
The  red  man  undoubtedly  originated  this  byway,  and  the  white 
hunter  followed  its  lead. 

"Lakewoods"  is  all  that  its  title  implies,  woods  by  the  lake. 
The  contour  of  this  mile  of  frontage,  and  half  a  mile  of  depth  is  so 
varied  and  so  entrancing  that  its  future  as  a  site  for  country  seats 
to  those  desiring  frontage,  either  on  the  Lake  or  Sheridan  Road,  is 
assured.  The  automobile  or  the  horse  will  solve  the  question  of 
living  remote  from  the  railway  station. 


LAKE  FROM  PORCH  OF  "THE  MORAINE" 
Highland  Park 


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CONGRESSMAN  FOSS  RECEIVING  BATTALION 
(Administration  Building  and  Officers' 
Quarters  in  Background.) 


THE    GREAT    LAKES    NAVAL 
TRAINING    STATION 

I  sing  the  sailor  of  the  sea,  breed  of  the  oaken  heart, 
Who  drew  our  world  together  and  spread  the  race  apart. 

T.  F.  Day 

CONGRESSMAN     GEORGE    EDMUND    FOSS    and    the    late 
Graeme    Stewart  made  no  error  of  judgment  when  as  delegates 
to   Washington  they  urged  the  merits  of  a  particular  site  on  our 
beautiful   North  Shore,   as  one  of  desirability  for  the  Great   Lakes 
Naval  Station.     The  members  of  the  Merchants  and  Commercial  Clubs 
of  Chicago  are  also  to  be  congratulated  on  their  enterprise  in  pur- 
chasing this  tract  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  acres,  and  donating 
it  to  the  Government  for  the  purpose  named. 

Thus  far,  the  total  amount  expended  for  the  construction  of  the 
station,  is  $3,475,000.  This  station  is  located  about  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  incorporated  village  of  North  Chicago,  and  a  mile  and  a  half 
north  of  Lake  Bluff.  It  is  on  a  plateau  about  eighty  feet  above  Lake 
Michigan  and  commanding  an  expansive  view  of  the  waters.  Here, 
where  a  ravine  intersects  the  property,  has  been  built  a  good  harbor, 
while  the  ravine  itself  has  been  evolved  into  the  most  picturesque 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND       PRESENT 


lagoon,  both  harbor  and  lagoon  serving  its  purpose  for  training  in 
the  art  of  naval  seamanship.  On  the  beach  is  located  a  powerhouse 
and  pumping  station.  It  is  right  within  shelter  of  the  high  bluff 
and  forms  no  detriment  to  the  scenic  beauty  of  the  site  itself  nor  to 
adjoining  properties. 

All  the  structures  are  of  the  most  classic  type,  substantial  and 
imposing  by  reason  of  their  very  simplicity.  They  are  as  fireproof 
as  construction  warrants,  steam-heated  and  lighted  by  electricity. 
The  Administration  building  with  its  tower  reaching  an  altitude  of 
300  feet  above  the  bluff,  commands  a  wide  view  of  the  water  from 
the  east,  and  stretches  of  upland  and  prairie,  forest  and  dreamy 


ADMINISTRATION   BUILDING 
(West  Entrance) 


SKYLARKING  WHILE  OFF  DUTY 


woodlands  to  the  west.  From  the  entrance  gate  looking  east  this, 
building  is  about  a  mile  distant,  and  as  the  visitor  walks  over  fine, 
broad  cement  walks  in  this  direction  he  is  greeted  by  group  after 
group  of  structures  facing  the  parade  ground,  that  are  in  perfect 
harmony  in  every  detail  with  the  central  structure.  Along  the  edge 
of  the  bluff  are  placed  the  homes  of  the  officers,  the  admiral's  home 
commanding  the  central  point. 

There  is  a  fine  drill  hall  and  a  mess  hall,  the  entrance  to  the  latter 
might  be  that  of  a  palace  of  the  renaissance  period.  A  magnificent 
auditorium,  fitted  with  a  stage  in  proportion  to  its  dimensions,  where 
entertainments  as  well  as  religious  services  are  held  and  where  verbal 
instruction  relating  to  the  various  branches  of  the  service  is  given. 
Entering  the  dormitories  one  becomes  impressed  with  the  absence  of 
cots.  Looking  upward,  a  series  of  queer-looking  tackle,  neat  and 
orderly  in  appearance,  but  suspended  within  a  few  inches  of  the 


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Awaiting  Drill  Call,  front  of  Drill  Hall 


South  Entrance  to  Mess  Hall 


Signal  Drill  on  the   Receiving  Group 
GREAT  LAKES  NAVAL  TRAINING  STATION 


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HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND      PRESENT 

ceiling  is  seen.  At  night  these  being  lowered,  develop  into  hammocks. 
For  our  candidate  for  naval  development  must  be  no  coddled,  feather- 
bed sailor !  It  also  requires  courage  to  go  under  the  shower  in  the 
morning! 

The  kitchen — designated  galley — is  equipped  with  everything  that 
is  up-to-date  in  the  culinary  art,  and  so  immaculate  that  one  almost 
feared  to  set  foot  on  the  floor;  while  the  bakery,  with  its  automatic 
dough  mixer  and  dough  trough,  its  mechanical  cream  whipper  and 
egg  beater  is  as  good  as  an  appetizer.  A  fine  gymnasium,  fully  equipped, 
and  containing  devices  for  boom  swinging,  as  well  as  a  speedway,  a 
swimming  pool  and  a  bowling  alley,  all  contribute  recreation  as  well 
as  instruction. 

The  acres  composing  this  site  are  enclosed  by  a  high  wrought- 
iron  fence  on  a  base  of  masonry,  presenting  with  its  enclosure  of 
shrub  growth  and  neatness  of  approach  from  whichever  direction, 
features  that  will  prove  a  valuable  asset  to  the  future  upbuilding  of 
the  immediate  vicinity. 

For  three  weeks  after  the  recruit  is  accepted,  he  is  not  allowed 
outside  the  station.  During  this  time  the  rough  edges  are  toned 
down  and  he  has  become  accustomed  to  the  rigid  discipline,  and  at 
recreation  moments,  he  may,  perhaps,  be  found  prone  on  the  grass, 
battling  with  homesickness,  or  undergoing  a  tug  with  his  inner  con- 
sciousness of  the  conditions  to  which  he  has  bound  himself.  If  he 
is  built  of  the  right  stuff,  and  this  is  the  environment  where  the  test 
becomes  critical,  he  gradually  falls  into  the  routine  of  duty  and 
begins  to  view  life  under  a  different  aspect. 

He  now  feels  he  is  pressing  toward  a  goal,  for  at  the  end  of  three 
months  he  will  be  drafted  to  one  of  the  various  ships  of  the  United 
States  Navy.  In  the  meantime  he  has  acquired  considerable  control 
of  himself,  has  learned  to  accomplish,  and  begins  to  feel  he  has  a  pur- 
pose in  life.  His  figure  shows  the  effect  of  physical  training,  his 
cheeks  have  assumed  a  ruddy  hue,  his  eyes  are  bright  with  enthusiasm, 
and  love  for  the  flag  has  become  a  religion.  During  all  this  time  he 
has  slept  in  a  hammock,  has  fed  upon  wholesome  rations  neither  too 
much  nor  too  little.  He  has  had  lots  of  pleasure,  too,  football  and 
other  sports,  and  his  immaculate  white  uniform  has  now  become  a 
matter  for  pride  and  he  glories  in  the  fact  that  he  is  associated  with 
an  arm  of  the  Government  service  entitled  to  respectful  consideration. 

O  Jackies  of  the  Great  Lakes  Naval  Training  Station,  may  war 
never  come!  Yet  if  it  should,  the  nation  will  find  you  are  better 
fighters,  braver,  more  courageous  and  intrepid,  from  your  sojourn  on 
our  beautiful  North  Shore! 

Future  traditions  will  incorporate  the  visit  of  the  Hon.  William  H. 
Taft,  President  of  the  United  States,  who,  on  October  28,  1911, 
dedicated  the  Naval  Training  Station  to  the  "normal,  physical  and 
ethical  development  of  the  young  men  of  the  nation."  Legends  will 
tell  of  the  reverberating  echoes  along  the  North  Shore  as  heavy  guns 
welcomed  the  coming  of  a  President;  of  his  greeting  to  an  elderly 
woman  who  had  known  him  some  forty  years  ago ;  of  how  the  Jackies 
in  a  thin  white  line  advanced  upon  the  encroaching  crowd  causing  it 
to  fall  back  in  an  orderly  manner. 


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Indian  Trail  Tree  at  Lake  Bluff,   111. 

THE  CITY  OF  WAUKEGAN— ITS  LEGENDS 
AND  TRADITIONS 

O'er  that  which  hath  been  and  o'er  that  which  must  be; 
What  we  have  seen  our  sons  shall  see; 
Remnants  of  things  that  have  passed  away, 
Fragments  of  stone  reared  by  creatures  of  clay. 

Byron. 

THE  "Little  Fort"  of  the  pioneer  is  Waukegan  of  today.  "Little 
Fort"  received  mention  in  a  history  of  the  United  States,  pub- 
lished in  London,  1795.  There  is  also  a  map  in  this  old  work, 
made  according  to  the  treaty  of  1783.  Two  places  are  indicated  on 
the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  Chicago  and  Little  Fort,  the 
latter  being  designated  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream — Old  Fort  River. 
It  is  but  natural  to  infer  then,  that  previous  to  1783,  there  was  a 
fort  of  much  older  significance,  than  that  which  is  later  brought 
to  notice. 

Tradition  cherishes  the  probability  of  La  Salle  and  one  or  more 
of  his  company  having  been  in  this  immediate  vicinity  in  1679.  Did 
he  build  a  fort  here?  And  was  this  "Old  Fort"  to  which  reference 
is  made  in  the  early  English  map?  La  Salle's  scheme,  as  we  know, 
was  to  erect  a  chain  of  forts  from  Lake  Ontario  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  so  establish  the  supreme  right  of  France  to  reign 
over  this  broad  inland  territory. 

When  the  very  earliest  settlers — hunters  and  traders,  principally — 
came  among  the  Indians,  on  the  site  now  covered  by  the  city  of 
Waukegan,  legends  were  not  wanting  in  the  confirmation  of  the 
supposition  that  La  Salle  here  builded  a  fort.  The  descendants  of 
the  tribes  occupying"*this  vicinity  in  the  seventeenth  century,  per- 
sisted in  the  statement  that  an  Indian  village  of  some  pretentions, 


Page  hundred  and  seventy-two 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  —  PAST      AND       PRESENT 

existed  in  this  neighborhood  at  the  time  the  "Old  Fort"  was  erected. 
That  the  designation  of  "  Little  Fort"  was  used  by  the  Pottawattomies 
to  distinguish  the  latter  and  its  location  from  the  earlier  structure  and 
its  site.  This  legend  was  again  and  again  detailed  to  the  early  settlers, 
and  is  rightly  cherished  by  their  descendants. 

These  settlers  found  decaying  timbers  enough,  together  with  some 
rude  earthworks,  to  verify  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  the  "  Little 
Fort."  It  had  probably  been  erected  by  hunters  and  traders  as  a 
protection  against,  or  an  intimidation  toward  any  hostilities  on  the 
part  of  the  Indians.  This  rude  stockade  enclosure  stood  at  the  inter- 
section of  Water  Street  and  Sheridan  Road,  Waukegan. 

It  is  also  interesting  to  be  able  to  confirm  the  existence  of  this 
latter  structure  previous  to  1825.  One,  William  Hamilton,  drove  a 
herd  of  cattle  from  Springfield,  Illinois,  to  Green  Bay,  Wisconsin,  in 
the  year  named,  following,  from  Chicago,  the  Lake  as  closely  as 
possible,  though  not  immediately  on  its  shore.  Mr.  Hamilton  clearly 
stated  that  these  ruins  were  designated  "Little  Fort."  He  is  not 
very  clear,  however,  in  speaking  of  distances,  although  he  describes 
the  location.  Undoubtedly,  this  was  one  of  his  landmarks  by  the 
way,  as  he  was  taking  cattle  to  a  detachment  of  the  United  States 
soldiery,  then  stationed  at  Green  Bay,  and  his  instructions  as  to  the 
highway  he  should  follow,  as  well  as  of  the  particular  landmarks  by 
which  he  might  recognize  the  same,  would  be  explicit.  This  is  why 
that  of  "Little  Fort"  remained  in  his  memory.  It  was  a  distin- 
guishing object  of  guidance  along  the  route. 

The  acknowledgment  in  the  old  English  book  of  a  stream  here 
designated  as  "Old  Fort  River"  would  indicate  the  existence  of  a 
well  known  fort  in  this  vicinity,  while  the  ruins  of  "Little  Fort," 
together  with  the  rich  yield  of  Indian  relics,  spear-heads,  arrow-heads, 
tomahawks,  and  even  skeletons,  together  with  bits  of  wrought  metal 
suggestive  of  accoutrements  worn  by  the  French  soldiery  of  La  Salle's 
day,  are  all  strong  links  in  a  chain  of  evidence  of  the  site  of  Wau- 
kegan being  rife  with  traditional  import.  This  atmosphere  yet  lingers. 
The  student  of  research  becomes  possessed  with  an  intense  desire  to 
dig  and  to  delve,  until  the  secret  of  that  which  is  now  vague  and 
mysterious  be  forced  to  the  open.  For  Waukegan  of  today,  is  an 
association  of  past  with  present;  of  the  yesterday  treading  closely 
upon  the  heels  of  today.  It  is  old,  it  is  new;  it  is  youthful  yet  aged; 
it  puzzles,  it  distracts,  this  city  by  the  lake  which  retains  its  Indian 
title. 

The  early  settlers  aspired  to  build  a  city  that  should  become  of 
some  importance  as  a  shipping  point.  With  this  end  in  view,  a  com- 
pany was  organized  in  Chicago  as  early  as  1835.  One  of  its  members, 
Thomas  Jenkins,  became  Waukegan's  pioneer  merchant  and  the 
builder  of  the  first  frame  structure  in  the  township.  Tradition  locates 
it  within  shelter  of  the  bluff  just  north  of  the  big  ravine.  The  popu- 
lation of  "Little  Fort,"  at  this  period,  was  represented  by  those  who 
inhabited  the  five  log  cabins  and  who  worked  in  the  very  unpre- 
tentious sawmill. 

By  vote  of  the  people,  Little  Fort  obtaining  a  majority  of  188 
out  of  744  votes,  the  county  seat,  on  April  13,  1841,  was  established 


Page  hundred  and  seventy-three 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


here.  Feeling  ran  high  at  this  change  of  location  on  the  Lake,  and 
for  years  the  resentment  made  itself  felt  in  political  issues.  One 
hundred  and  sixty  acres  at  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  acre 
were  pre-empted  for  the  county  seat.  Those  who  possessed  claims 
upon  the  chosen  site  showed  their  appreciation  of  the  conditions  by 
releasing  them  in  favor  of  the  county. 

The  latter  had  no  funds  in  its  treasury  wherewith  to  make  the 
purchase,  but  it  had  been  whispered  among  those  directly  interested, 
that  one  of  the  pioneers  had  been  heard  to  say  that  he  had  two 
hundred  dollars  in  gold,  which  the  commissioners  might  have  as  a 
loan.  And  Elmsley  Sunderlin  became  immortalized  in  the  traditions 
of  Lake  County.  He  was  a  live,  active  worker  for  progression,  and 
Waukegan  owes  much  to  just  such  men  of  this  period,  that  earnestly 
worked  for  the  good  of  the  community  at  large.  The  first  courthouse 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1875.  In  1887  the  present  courthouse  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  forty  thousand  dollars.  It  is  barely  large  enough 
at  the  present  time  to  meet  its  requirements. 

In  connection  with  the  changing  of  the  county  seat  to  "Little  Fort" 
there  are  many  incidents  worthy  of  record.  The  "For  Burlington" 
people  charged  the  "For  Little  Fort"  contingent  with  illegal  voting, 
which  was  easily  and  readily  disproved.  Then  followed  a  question 
of  legal  technicalities,  and  Dr.  Richard  Murphy,  the  first  resident  of 
Lake  County  to  represent  the  people  in  the  Illinois  legislature,  secured 
the  passage  of  an  Act  declaring  the  county  seat  should  be  considered 
permanently  established  at  "Little  Fort."  Captain  Morris  Robinson, 
who  had  been  one  of  the  active  workers  toward  this  end,  resolved 
to  go  to  Springfield  to  also  urge  the  passing  of  this  Act. 

It  was  mid-winter,  and  the  legend  runs  that  neither  he  nor  his 
friends  in  or  about  "Little  Fort"  had  a  horse  available  for  the  trip. 
Nothing  daunted,  the  enthusiastic  pioneer  set  out  on  foot.  Much  of 
his  life  had  been  spent  on  the  sea,  but  pioneering  had  developed  a 
love  for  walking  and  he  footed  it  to  Springfield,  ever  after  boasting 
that  he  had  beat  the  stage  from  Chicago  by  two  days! 

"Little  Fort  Porcupine  and  Democratic  Banner"  was  the  pioneer 
newspaper.  Its  distinguishing  insignia  was  a  wood  engraving,  repre- 
senting a  porcupine  with  quills  set  in  battle  array,  intimating  the 
spirit  of  its  projectors,  who  fearlessly  hit  right  and  left,  regardless  of 
political  party,  and  pricked  the  pride  and  temper,  if  not  the  con- 
sciences, of  all  public  officials,  who,  in  its  estimation,  stood  in  need 
of  editorial  lambasting.  Its  initial  number,  issued  March  4,  1845, 
proclaims  the  fact,  that  in  Little  Fort,  at  that  time,  there  were  452 
inhabitants,  three  commodious  public  houses,  seven  stores,  two  black- 
smith shops,  one  tin  and  sheet  iron  factory,  two  shoe  shops,  three 
tailor  shops,  one  chair  and  cabinet  factory,  three  warehouses,  one  pier 
and  a  second  being  constructed,  and  two  brickyards.  In  this  same 
number  is  also  the  following  introductory: 

"Today,  March  4th,  is  notable  for  two  things.  It  is  inauguration 
day  with  President  Polk  and  Vice- President  Dallas,  as  well  as  with 
'Little  Fort  Porcupine  and  Democratic  Banner.'  Great  day  this  at 
Little  Fort  and  Washington!"  The  paper  does  not  seem  to  have 
met  with  all  the  encouragement  the  enterprise  deserved,  for  on  April 
1 6th  of  the  same  year,  appears  the  following: 

Page  hundred  and  seventy-four 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAY  S  — P  AST      AND       PRESENT 

"  Eugene  Sue  in  his  new  work,  'The  Wandering  Jew,'  endeavors 
to  show  that  this  being  is  to  wander  over  every  foot  of  earth,  try 
every  imaginable  plain  of  life,  occupy  all  stations  and  to  drain  to  the 
dregs  the  cup  of  each  conceivable  misery.  We  wonder  if  the  punish- 
ment can  be  complete  without  he  published  a  newspaper  at  'Little 
Fort'!" 

"Little  Fort"  having  attained  a  population  of  2,500,  sought  incor- 
poration as  a  village,  desiring,  also,  that  the  Act  of  Incorporation 
provide  for  the  change  in  its  title,  to  that  of  the  Pottawattomie 
equivalent,  Waukegan,  and  by  an  Act  of  the  Legislature,  February  12, 
1849,  these  petitions  were  granted. 

New  Year's  Day,  1855,  is  incorporated  in  the  traditions  of  Wau- 
kegan as  the  beginning  of  a  new  era.  For  the  high  bluffs  upon  which 
the  city  of  today  stands,  became  conscious  of  an  unusual  tremor  and 
vibration,  as  smoothly  gliding  over  a  magic  trail,  at  their  base,  came 
the  advance  guard  of  a  new  order.  The  iron  horse  snorts  with  satis- 
faction, and  every  now  and  again,  gives  vent  to  bursts  of  exhilaration 
as  it  appropriates  the  right  of  way,  inch  by  inch,  over  the  highway 
of  accommodation  and  commerce.  It  has  urged  its  way  northward 
over  part  of  an  historic  by-way,  which  of  necessity  it  has  cut  in  two 
here,  and  paralleled  there,  but  the  adjoining  wooded  heights  now 
catch  the  rhythmic  melody  of  its  joyous  progress,  and  "  Hap-py-New- 
Year!  Hap-py-New-Year!  Fair- Waukegan !  New-Wau-ke-gan"  is 
projected  through  and  over  the  site,  where,  but  yesterday,  the  Indian 
was  lord  of  the  soil,  and  where  tradition  avers  that  the  ambitious 
ambassador  from  France  erected  the  fort,  which  in  a  little  more  than 
a  century  afterward,  was  designated  on  the  English  map  as  "Old." 

Many  legends  are  still  afloat  regarding  the  method  of  transporta- 
tion during  the  period  of  railroad  construction.  Stage  routes  were 
established  between  Milwaukee  and  Waukegan,  and  between  the 
latter  and  the  nearest  point  of  approach  of  the  railroad,  each  trip  of 
the  stage  being  shortened  according  to  the  closer  reach  of  the  rail- 
road. A  twelve  mile  walk  was  nothing  in  those  days,  and  men  and 
women  in  these  earlier  times  more  frequently  "rode  shank's  mare," 
covering  distances  which  today  is  looked  upon  as  impossible. 

On  January  eleventh  of  this  same  year,  Waukegan  resolved  itself 
into  the  position  of  host  and  hostess  and  gave  a  party  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  coming  of  the  railroad.  The  day  before,  a  detachment  of 
artillery,  under  Lieutenant  Hadley,  had  arrived  from  Chicago,  to  take 
part  in  the  celebration.  On  the  morning  of  the  eleventh  Old  Sol 
emerged  from  the  far  horizon  of  the  Lake,  in  very  gracious  mood. 
The  waters  were  touched  with  regal  splendor,  the  corrugated  bluffs 
smiled  and  dimpled  in  response,  while  the  forests  stood  etched  against 
a  sky-line  of  ethereal  blue.  It  was  "unusual  weather,"  and  as  such 
has  found  its  way  into  tradition. 

It  is  now  noon  and  the  "special"  from  Chicago,  composed  of  a 
train  of  flat  cars,  bearing  officials  and  guests  to  the  celebration  will 
soon  hove  in  view.  And  right  on  time  it  came — at  half  past  twelve 
— having  covered  the  distance — 35  miles — in  two  hours  and  a  half! 
Quick  time  in  that  early  day.  A  boom  of  cannon,  the  cheers  of  the 
enthusiastic  people,  and  a  band  of  music  proclaimed  its  arrival. 


Page  hundred  and  seventy-five 


BOOK   OF   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


Imagine  what  an  event  this  was  to  the  pioneers  and  their  families! 
Many  of  whom  were  seeing  a  locomotive  for  the  first  time!  Yes, 
little  by  little,  the  east  was  being  linked  with  the  west  and  then  they 
would  not  seem  so  far  apart.  A  procession  to  the  courthouse  square 
where  speeches  were  made,  a  banquet,  at  which  four  hundred  partici- 
pated, and  a  ball  in  the  evening,  closed  a  memorable  day  in  the  his- 
tory of  Waukegan. 

Later,  over  the  steel  trail,  came  the  Hon.  Stephen  Douglas,  address- 
ing an  audience  from  an  improvised  platform  close  to  the  railroad 
station.  Mr.  Douglas  had  been  a  visitor  before  the  coming  of  the 
railroad,  addressing  a  large  audience  from  the  courthouse  square. 
The  second  of  April,  1860,  Abraham  Lincoln  spoke  to  a  large  audi- 
ence in  Dickinson  Hall.  He  was  warmly  welcomed,  for  already  Mr. 
Lincoln  was  looked  upon  as  a  possible  candidate  for  the  presidency. 
"The  Waukegan  Gazette,"  however  (a  live  paper  today),  named 
Lincoln  for  second  place  on  the  ticket,  giving  preference  to  Simon 
Cameron  as  president.  The  Hon.  C.  A.  Partridge,  in  his  reminiscent 
mood  of  this  particular  occasion,  writes,  in  his  valuable  "  History  of 
Lake  County:" 

"  Looking  back  upon  it,  and  remembering  that  this  gathering  was 
but  six  weeks  prior  to  the  date  set  for  the  convention  in  which  Mr. 
Lincoln  was  finally  named  for  the  highest  office  in  the  gift  of  the 
American  people,  and  that  the  very  air  was  surcharged  with  political 
excitement  and  with  forebodings  of  the  great  military  struggle  so 
soon  to  begin,  it  seems  remarkable  that  all  mention  of  the  meeting 
in  the  local  paper  was  confined  to  a  brief  paragraph." 

During  Mr.  Lincoln's  speech  there  came  the  ominous  sound  of  the 
firebell.  Naturally,  the  audience  evinced  symptoms  of  uneasiness. 
The  chairman,  Hon.  E.  P.  Ferry,  endeavored  to  allay  the  fears  of 
the  audience  by  remarking  that  there  was  no  cause  for  alarm  for  it 
was  but  a  practical  joke  on  the  part  of  political  opponents  in  an 
endeavor  to  break  up  the  meeting,  and  begged  the  distinguished 
speaker  to  proceed.  But  Mr.  Lincoln  had  caught  sight  of  the  red 
glare  from  without,  and  in  his  quiet  manner,  said:  "I  think  there 
is  a  fire.  You  had  better  go  and  try  to  save  the  property.  I  can 
come  some  other  time  and  speak  to  you."  With  a  few  friends  and 
from  a  point  of  vantage  on  the  beach  Mr.  Lincoln  witnessed  the 
destruction  of  a  warehouse  on  the  lake  shore. 

For  a  number  of  years  before  the  coming  of  the  railroad  Waukegan 
had  been  considered  a  thriving  shipping  port.  Before  its  first  pier 
was  constructed,  in  the  summer  of  1841,  passengers  and  freight  had 
been  transferred  from  passing  vessels  to  lighters.  But  not  until  1845 
did  steamboats  come  with  any  marked  regularity.  Each  River  and 
Harbor  Bill  since  1881  carried  an  appropriation  for  the  maintenance 
and  improvement  of  the  harbor. 

Waukegan  is  about  thirty-five  miles  north  of  Chicago.  It  had 
every  advantage  for  the  evolution  of  a  City  Beautiful,  but  was  destined, 
even  from  its  earliest  incipiency,  to  become  a  City  Commercial;  and 
the  "beautiful,"  except  in  instances,  in  which  individual  citizens  and 
the  City  Fathers  have  striven  to  retain  the  rich  gifts  bestowed  by 
Nature,  lies  in  abeyance. 


Page  hundred  and  seventy-six 


HIGHWAYS      AND      BYWAYS  — PAST      AND       PRESENT 

At  the  base  of  its  towering  and  picturesque  bluffs  is  a  stretch  of 
smooth  sandy  beach  from  ^one-eighth  to/me-third  of  a  mile  in  width. 
This  latter  has  been  appropriated  to  manufacturing  purposes  and  the 
right  of  way  of  the  railroad.  The  city  itself  is  on  the  plateau  above. 
Its  streets  are  intersected  by  beautifully  wooded  ravines,  which  are 
bridged  for  convenience,  and  Sheridan  Road  takes  its  way  along  the 
bluff,  commanding  an  expansive  view  of  the  Lake.  Many  of  the 
early  homes  and  a  few  of  the  most  pretentious  houses  were  built 
along  this  street,  long,  long  before  it  became  designated  as  a  part  of 
one  of  the  world's  famous  driveways;  and,  perhaps,  long  before  it 
was  realized  that  an  array  of  smokestacks,  albeit  out  of  direct  view, 
might  frequently  veil  the  sapphire  of  the  waters  in  a  murk  of  smoke. 

Waukegan  has  well  paved  streets,  up-to-date  curbings  and  avenues 
rich  with  a  fine  maple  growth.  It  has  good  schools,  fine  churches 
and  a  well  built  and  artistic  public  library.  In  the  basement  of  the 
latter  are  the  headquarters  of  the  Lake  County  Historical  Society. 

A  wealth  of  material  is  gathered  here  awaiting  classification. 
Awaiting  a  throb  of  responsive  appreciation  from  the  people  of  the 
county  itself,  who  should,  without  unnecessary  delay,  awaken  to  the 
fact  that  it  is  absolutely  essential,  if  they  expect  consideration  in  the 
archives  of  the  future,  to  swell  the  membership  of  this  small  but 
enthusiastic  organization,  that  is  doing  so  much  to  preserve  the 
traditions  and  legends  of  Lake  County. 

When  one  realizes  what  has  already  been  accomplished  under 
difficulties,  the  assurance  presents  itself  that  Waukegan  is  destined 
in  the  near  future  to  an  evolution  in  which  the  artistic  will  touch 
elbow  with  the  commercial,  and  laying  hold  of  its  many  natural 
advantages,  seek  development  in  the  interest  of  the  utmost  good  for 
the  greatest  number,  by  making  a  city  park  which  shall  be  unequalled 
in  scenic  beauty  and  picturesqueness  by  anything  of  the  kind  along 
the  North  Shore. 


Page  hundred 
Trail  Tree  at  Glencoe,  111.  an3  twenty-seven 


BOOK   OP   THE   NORTH   SHORE 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Jesuit  Relations,  Thwaites. 

Early  Voyages  Mississippi,  Shea. 

Indian  Landmarks  North  Shore,  Grover. 

Past  and  Present  Lake  County,  Illinois,  Haines. 

Lake  County,  Partridge. 

Old  Newspaper  Files. 

The  Author  also  desires  to  express  appreciation  of  the  helpful  courtesy 
shown  by  the  Chicago  Historical  Society;  by  Mr.  Robert  M.  Ingalls,  Mr.  C. 
T.  Heydecker,  and  Miss  Bess  T.  Bowers,  all  of  Waukegan,  111.,  and  to  the 
descendants  of  the  families  of  the  early  settlers. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

FOREWORD 5 

HIGHWAYS  AND  BYWAYS  PAST  AND  PRESENT: 

The  Highway  is  Opened 7 

Glimpses  of  Lake  County 23 

Lake  Forest,  the  College  City  of  the  North  Shore 39 

Highland  Park,  the  North  Shore  Pioneer  of  Country  Seats S3 

The  Highway  Southward  to  Chicago 135 

The  Favorite  Pastime  on  the  North  Shore,   "The  Royal  Game  of  Goff" t4S 

Passing  Vistas 155 

Exploration  and  Discovery 159 

The  Great  Lakes  Naval  Training  Station 167 

The  City  of  Waukegan,  its  Legends  and  Traditions 173 

Index  to  Illustrations 179,  180 


Page  hundred  and  seventy-eight 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Alice  Home,  Lake  Forest 18 

Bluffs  at  Ravinia  Park 62 

Bridge  at  "  Haven  Wood,"  Lake  Forest.  .  .  8 

"Broadly  Sweeping  Right  and  Left" 19 

Country  Clubs — Onwentsia,  Exmoor,  Lake 

Shore,  Skokie  and  Glen  View 

23-37,  65,  144-153 

Diverging  Highways 22 

Durand  Commons,  Lake  Forest 45 

Durand  Institute,  Lake  Forest 42 

Entrance  to  "Pinewold,"  Lake  Forest.  ,  .Cover 

Fort  Sheridan 154 

Gymnasium,  Lake  Forest 39 

Harlan  and  Blackstone  Halls,  Lake  Forest.  44 

Heights  at  "Miralago,"  Hlghand  Park...  2 

High  School,  Highland  Park 58 

Index — Homes  and  Gardens 180 

Indian  Trail,  Lakewoods 158 

Indian  Trail  Trees 136,  138.  172,  177 

Interior  North  Shore  Trust  Company  Bank, 

Highland  Park 106 

Lake  and  the  Forest 16 

Lake  and  Lawrence  Avenue  Crib 133 

Lake  from  the  Lake  Forest  Park 20 

Lake  from  the  Bluffs  at  Lakewoods 163 

Lake  from  "Moraine,"  Highland  Park.  .  .  .  165 

Lakewoods,  Views  in 157-165 


Lois  Durand  Hall,  Lake  Forest 48 

McCormicks'  Bridge,  Lake  Forest 38 

Moonlight  on  Lake  Michigan 6 

Naval  Training  Station,  North  Chicago 

i 66- 170 

New  Presbyterian  Church,  Highland  Park.  53 

Old  Port  Clinton  Lighthouse 54 

Ouilmette  Country  Club 1 16 

Parkway  and  Nursery,  Highland  Park 93 

Ravine,  Highland  Park 159 

Reid  Hall,  Lake  Forest 40 

Reid  Memorial  Chapel,  Lake  Forest 46 

Reid  Memorial  Library,  Lake  Forest 50 

Roger  Williams  Avenue,  Ravinia 64 

Stone  Gate,  Lake  Forest 21 

Suggested  Harbor  at  Lake  Forest 52 

Sweeney  Log  Cabin,  Fort  Sheridan 155 

Trail  to  the  Beach,  Lakewoods 162 

Turn  in  the  Road 15 

Union  Church,  Glencoe 108 

Valley  Road,  Lakewoods 158 

Valley  of  the  Skokie,  Highland  Park 87 

Vista  in  Lake  Forest  Park 17 

Waverly  Avenue  Bridge,  Highland  Park..  56 

White  Birches 142 

Wooded  Bluffs 26 


Page  hundred  find  seventy-nine 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

HOMES  AND  GARDENS 


Albright,  Adam  Emory 1 1  .j  Kuppenheimer,  J 28 

Alexander,  H.  E i  20,  i  2  i  Laflin,  Louis  E 30 

Armour,  J.  Ogrlem 7  Lynch.  M i  23 

Bahr,  Fritz 93,  107  Marsh.  Marshall  S 70 

Beatty,  R.  J 102  McCormick,  Harold  Fowler 10,  1 1 

Cagney,  James  E 126  Metzel,  E.  B : 79 

Carpenter,  A.  A.  Jr 12  Moeng,  E.  D 124.  125 

Carqueville,  Alexander  R 97  Moras,  Edmond  R.,  M.  D 66-69 

Case,  Frank  A 130,  13  i  Patterson,  J.  W 24 

Clarke,  Henry  Bertrande 74,75  Raymond,  Jules  N 119 

Clements,  Thomas 77  "Ridgewood" 88-92 

Compton,  F.  E 109  Ritchie.  Mrs.  H.  R 104 

Couch,  Ira  J 146  Roberts,  Charles  J 117 

Curtis,  John  F.  L 105  Roberts,  George  W 100 

Deerpath  Inn 24  Seyfarth,  Robert 103 

DeMuth,  Benj.  F 78  Shannon,  Mrs.  Maud  Holbrook 104 

Dox,  Charles  E 149  Shaw,  J.  B 134 

Dyer,  George  T 115  Smith,  C.  F.  Mather 81 

Ebeling,  George  C 107  Smith,  Robert  S 135 

Everhart,  George  P 96  Squire,  Benjamin  A 122 

Fahrney,  Wm.  H 128  Terbell,  J.  B 82 

Fishback,  Hon.  Chas.  F 98,  99  Thayer,  Clarence  Holmes 71 

Fitzgerald,  Burt  J 108  Thayer,  Henry  J 76 

Foreman,  Oscar  G i  1 1  Tyner,  E 83 

Frost,  Charles  S 14  Upham,  Frederic  W 148 

Glidden,  Grace 102  Wardrop,  Walter 103 

Gunder,  S.  H 127  Washington,  Alf 1 10 

Hardin,  John  R 1 1  2,  1 13  Watkins,  Elias  M 101 

Harrington,  Stephen  Harris 72,  73  Wean,  Frank  L 80 

Hately,  Walter  C 94,  95  Weinand,  Mrs.  John  N 132 

Hawkins,  Frank  P 55  Whitney,  C.  P 118 

Irwin,  The  Misses 104  Will,  Dr.  Harry  Clayton 129 

Kaempfer,  Fred 118  Williams.  Lucian  M 84-86 


Page  hundred  and  eighty 


UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS-URBAN* 


SECOND  BOOK  OF  THE  NORTH  SHORE.  HOMES.  G 


